s14a with gt3240@27psi

[s14nismo]

As ive got a few days off ive got time to dedicate to the vems so quick update-

 After a small issue of a self destructing relay in the ecu/loom adaptor i had to send off the unit to rob to be checked out as i couldnt get any communication with the vems
 All was well so it just needed some changes in the device manager on the pc.

The IAT sensor was placed just behind the throttle body;



A tap off for the onboard MAP sensor was needed so 10mm polyurethane pipe was used;


And both were fed through the bulkhead by the shortest possible route with some electrical glands;



The tps is now calibrated and was going to set the crank trigger but after sitting unused for a couple weeks my battery hasnt got enough juice to keep vems alive while cranking! so im gonna charge the battery and start fresh tomorrow

[[email protected]]

I've been talking with dnb as he's going through the crank trigger settings - if you find that your timing is miles out then its possible that the disk is round the wrong way.  Its a 50/50 chance

Rob

[s14nismo]

yeah i noticed that when i put it in
 The way i put it in it looks to be roughly on the trigger at about 60deg BTDC. But I'll have to suck it and see

[s14nismo]

I have a small problem, I connected Vems today to try and set the crank trigger and all the gauges on megatune came online (turned white) except the engine speed (rpm) gauge. so when i cranked the engine there was no rpm showing on the gauge.
 Ive checked i have 12v on pin2 of the CAS plug and pin1 is grounded and with the plug disconnected from the CAS i have 4.7v on pin3 and 3.4v on pin4 is this correct?
 Iv'e also checked the ecu/loom adaptor is pushed fully home and tightened,
anyone have any ideas why im not reading a trigger?
 

 

[BenFenner]

I know my SR20 would do that if I had the CAS signal wires connected backwards. Not sure if that's your problem though.

Also, I just took in the meaning of your title... GT32 running 27 psi!
DanMartin's S13 runs a GT30 with wastegate set at 8 psi, and immediate/steady boost creep up to 16 psi. It's a blast. I wish I could experience your kind of power though. =]

Someday soon I'm sure.

[[email protected]]

Right then.  I've just fired up one we tested on a Nissan the other weekend.
On the CAS - Pin1 is GND, Pin 2 reads12v, Pin 3 reads 3.45v, Pin 4 reads 4.81

So thats pretty much the same result, and shows that you have continuity.

Lets isolate the trigger to see if its picking up a signal.
In MegaTune: Settings->Secondary trigger/ Cam Sync Settings change the value in TODO! should be 0x02 when disabled! from 25 to 2, then click on Burn to ECU and then Close

Try cranking again and report back.

Make sure that you're not pumping fuel while testing, at the moment the lack of crank signals mean that the fuel pump is not activated, once you get a signal you'll find the fuel pump will kick in.

I know you have already checked but make sure that the far edges of the connector are well seated, that bolt needs more tightening than you'd believe.

I hope this helps

[[email protected]]

I know my SR20 would do that if I had the CAS signal wires connected backwards. Not sure if that's your problem though.

Also, I just took in the meaning of your title... GT32 running 27 psi!
DanMartin's S13 runs a GT30 with wastegate set at 8 psi, and immediate/steady boost creep up to 16 psi. It's a blast. I wish I could experience your kind of power though. =]

Someday soon I'm sure.

Thats what I was hoping to work out by disabling the Cam Sync.

I have CAS pin3 to VEMS EC36pin27 (Primary trigger)  and CAS pin4 to VEMS EC36pin13 (Secondary trigger)

[s14nismo]

Lets isolate the trigger to see if its picking up a signal.
In MegaTune: Settings->Secondary trigger/ Cam Sync Settings change the value in TODO! should be 0x02 when disabled! from 25 to 2, then click on Burn to ECU and then Close

Try cranking again and report back.

Make sure that you're not pumping fuel while testing, at the moment the lack of crank signals mean that the fuel pump is not activated, once you get a signal you'll find the fuel pump will kick in.

I know you have already checked but make sure that the far edges of the connector are well seated, that bolt needs more tightening than you'd believe.

I hope this helps

I'll try this tomorrow, otherwise my dinner will be in the dog! lol

Also, I just took in the meaning of your title... GT32 running 27 psi!
DanMartin's S13 runs a GT30 with wastegate set at 8 psi, and immediate/steady boost creep up to 16 psi. It's a blast. I wish I could experience your kind of power though. =]

Someday soon I'm sure.

Yeah 27psi is my target with the vems, ive been running at 23psi on e-manage gold and managed 540hp high octane fuel!
 im hoping for anything over 600hp

[s14nismo]

Right then.  I've just fired up one we tested on a Nissan the other weekend.
On the CAS - Pin1 is GND, Pin 2 reads12v, Pin 3 reads 3.45v, Pin 4 reads 4.81

So thats pretty much the same result, and shows that you have continuity.

Lets isolate the trigger to see if its picking up a signal.
In MegaTune: Settings->Secondary trigger/ Cam Sync Settings change the value in TODO! should be 0x02 when disabled! from 25 to 2, then click on Burn to ECU and then Close

Try cranking again and report back.

Make sure that you're not pumping fuel while testing, at the moment the lack of crank signals mean that the fuel pump is not activated, once you get a signal you'll find the fuel pump will kick in.

I know you have already checked but make sure that the far edges of the connector are well seated, that bolt needs more tightening than you'd believe.

I hope this helps

 Ok, ive tried the above but everything stayed the same, the engine speed gauge is still pink and not reading anything and the voltages on the cas plug are as they were before.

I notice your pin readings for pin 3&4 are the opposite way round to mine though, mine are (pin3,4.8v) and (pin4,3.41)?

[[email protected]]

Ah... this is a little embarassing...
I bet I've got the two wires around the wrong way (like Ben Fenner said had
happened with his)

You should be able swap pins between EC36pin13 and EC36pin27 easily enough. The
Econoseal pins are held in their slots by little catches that can be accessed
from the front of the plug. Take a look at the front of the plug and you'll see
that theres a gap at the top of the crimp, if you look down one of the unfilled
holes you'll see theres a tang that sticks down and locks into the back of the
crimp when its in place. If you slip a thin blade, or spike along the top of the
crimp you should feel the tang thats locking the crimp in place, if you lever it
up and pull the wire out at the same time it slips easily out.

The voltages on your CAS should then be the same as mine and you should be in
business.

[BenFenner]

You can get at the tangs from the front? I've been getting to them from behind with an extreme pair of needle-nosed pliers... No wonder it was so tough. I guess a straightened paper clip would do the trick then.

Edit: Disregard what I just said about getting at the tangs from behind. I was on crack when I said that, as this is impossible.

[s14nismo]

You can get at the tangs from the front? I've been getting to them from behind with an extreme pair of needle-nosed pliers... No wonder it was so tough. I guess a straightened paper clip would do the trick then.

 Yes i used a 2mm precision flat screwdriver, it worked a treat!

Right i swapped over the pins and tried cranking again, still no signal and the gauge is still pink,
 
 So i tried disabling the cam sync again, cranked it over and still no signal at all, HOWEVER, as sooned as i STOPPED cranking
the IAC started furiously switching, the engine speed gauge came alive and started jumping around wildly (as did my cars rpm gauge) the "Trigger errors"  started flashing at the bottom of the screen, all this went on for about 10 seconds then stopped!

 Im confused!

[[email protected]]

I used a paper clip for a while, now I have a choice of a specially bent flat bladed screw driver the tip bends down and naturally lifts the plastic catch:

Circled is the latch that stops the crimp from reversing.
Or a straight spike that you lift the thing with.

Rob

[[email protected]]

You can get at the tangs from the front? I've been getting to them from behind with an extreme pair of needle-nosed pliers... No wonder it was so tough. I guess a straightened paper clip would do the trick then.

 Yes i used a 2mm precision flat screwdriver, it worked a treat!

Right i swapped over the pins and tried cranking again, still no signal and the gauge is still pink,
 
 So i tried disabling the cam sync again, cranked it over and still no signal at all, HOWEVER, as sooned as i STOPPED cranking
the IAC started furiously switching, the engine speed gauge came alive and started jumping around wildly (as did my cars rpm gauge) the "Trigger errors"  started flashing at the bottom of the screen, all this went on for about 10 seconds then stopped!

 Im confused!

Now I'm confused too... what is the battery voltage like when cranking?  Jorgen said that the rear mounted battery caused such a voltage drop that the ECU couldn't cope, which is why we went to the direct power connection from the battery through the relay to the VEMS.

The bit at the end of cranking sounds like noise causing false triggers - which wouldnt happen if it were waiting for the cam sync which explains why it happens when the cam sync is disabled.  But Hall isnt usually effected by noise in the same way that VR is.

Its strange because everything else is working fine from the sensors the tacho which the VEMS is driving.

Lets try and get the cranking speed up and lowering the voltage drop by removing the plugs and cranking it.

I'll dig out the info on trigger logging so that we can have a look at that.

[s14nismo]

Ive already removed the plugs and im using a booster battery out of my diesel vw connected to the main live on the relay box (where the original battery was connected) the voltage is only just dropping below 12v on cranking- about 11.8v, so there should be more than enough juice!
  Ive also squeezed up the pins on the cas plug so its definately got good contact there. So is the engine speed gauge supposed to go live as soon as Vems is powered up, or does it just activate as soon as it reads a signal? ie, as soon as i start cranking?