Injection settings

[Denmark]

If the UserGuide has any incorrect information please tell me so that I can rectify the problem.

Rob

It´s the part with the duel iac valve, it says:

EC36 pin 6 close
EC36 pin17 open,

but it´s the other way around, pin 6 is open and 17 is close, i´m currently also helping gettin a celica ready for the ring trip, and that was also the wrong way around, so it´s not the subaru manual that´s wrong,

When i switched the wires it worked right away, with the 20v settings 


Regarding the noise, i was thinking more of some board change, to filter out the noise,other ecu´s canwork off the shell with oe wiring, so it odd to be possible.


What can i try with the filtering?

Thanks,
Skassa

[dnb]

I'm not that experienced with the filter settings, other than 36-1 and 60-2.

Rob did tell me about changing a couple of capacitors on the board, but I don't remember the details.

[Denmark]

I will try to mount a 10k pullup to see if this will help,

 it´s kind of the same problem, i had with the 10v corolla,

This is just worse, as i cant run the fans, or i can, i just needs to be over 2000rpm, but that is really deficult to drive like that

[[email protected]]

Its a pull-down you need.

Measure the resistance of the sensor and use a pull-down of the same value.

We're discussing this with Peter at the moment.  Hopefully he'll have some more possible solutions.

BTW you can keep the IAC connected as it was and set the channel value to i6

[Denmark]

Okay, thanks .


I will go to bed then, i hope for the car to be running, when i get up in the morning .


Thanks,
Skassa

[[email protected]]

Are you expecting a visit from the engine elves?

[Denmark]

It would be nice, but it have not happend

Here is a pic of the crank and cam sensor data from the manual:

[[email protected]]

Okay...
We really need the measurements from your sesnors so that we can work out the pull-down. 

Also Jorgen was telling Peter and myself about setting the LM1815 to Mode1 which is where pin5 of the LM1815 gets pulled high to 5V, this makes the arming voltage much higher and helps stop noise causing false triggers.  There is provision for this on the board as two pads are present on the board near each LM1815's pin5 that will allows a soldered link to be put in place.

The LM1815 is 'armed' on a rising voltage and triggers when the voltage falls to 0V - so its not on the peaks of the trigger but when the peak has returned to 0 that the ECU works from.

The LM1815 has three modes:
The first is the standard one they ship from VEMS, the adaptive trigger, which is where no voltage is applied to pin5, this means that the system will 'arm' on any input voltage over around 30mV. 
The second (we'll call it Mode=5V) is where 5V is applied to pin5 and the 'arming' voltage rises to over 100mv (check the LM1815 data sheet for the details). 
The final mode is where pin5 is pulled to ground and any voltage over 0v 'arms' the chip.

Apparently its possible to order Mode=5V with the completed units from the webshop!

[Denmark]

Thanks alot guys,

We go the car running today,and the fan can kick in, without the car stalling, i tried before we put the blobs on the solderpads, that if i keep the rpm over 1200rpm, the fan will not cause trigger errors.

But what we did as a quick sulution was to make the blob, so both the cas and cam lm1815,  does not see the noise under 200mv(raised from the 45mv as oe),this was first tried and it helped alot, the problem is that the car was warm, and the trigger noise is more when cold, so i will not not fora sure til tomorrow morning.
We then made a pulldown on the second vr sensor 4,7kohm,but its not perfect, but my electronic friend would rather put a 15-20k ohm, on the other side of the 12kohm that is already on the board,
But that i dont no much about, but will get it better, when/if we get home from the Ring trip..

we did not have time to scop the signal today, as there was lots of other things to do before we leave at 6am tomorrow.

Thanks,
Skassa

[Denmark]

well,

I got the car to the ring and some hard runs there (9.30min on my 6th round on the ring)and back again, without problems, the only trooble i have now , is the trigger noise, most bad when the car is cold in the morning, it talkes around 5min on and of cranking to get it running, were it humps and sputteres, then suddenly it burst to live, and runs without problems, strange, but i´m sure that it´s trigger noise, but i have to get this working with the oe wiring, to being able to sell/map the product here in DK.

So we will give it ago this weeekend again, hoping tofind out what´s needed to filter the trigger input,
On sunday i have to map a pnp LinkECU , so i will take a look to see how the trigger input is filtered on that(to get a idea to make it work)

I still run only 0.9bar, but there is some more power and drivebilty over the oe ecu, and i run a average of 7,8ltr/100km, on the run home, that was with a speed between 140-160km/t, that is lambda 1.05 and 45 degrees of advance 


/Skassa

[[email protected]]

Just to recap - Are you using a pull-down resistor on each of the trigger inputs?

[Denmark]

No ,i i now only have a pulldown on the second  trigger, but both lm1815 chip are in the mode, were they ignore what´s under 200mv, instead of the 45mv default.

But we willl scop it this weekend to see if there can be figuered out how to make it perfect.


/Skassa

[[email protected]]

It would be a good move to put a pull-down on the primary trigger too.

In the cases where the VR sensor gets constant stimulation (36-1, 60-1 etc) false triggers are less likely, with the Japanese cars where the ground voltage can wander and is subject to interference you need to clamp things as much as possible.