VEMS Community Forum
Members => Projects & Installs => Topic started by: Yak on July 13, 2008, 11:46:04 am
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Bit late but Ill start a project thread about my Time Attack competition car. Sister car, in Team Apex to SM's S13.
(http://www.zen27248.zen.co.uk/Silverstone08.jpg)
Competed last year using the car which was already fairly well modified but was not running a huge amount of power. Some where around 250BHP using a GT28R turbo on the original engine and a remapped ECU.
Over the winter... or as it turned out over the spring this year it had a bit of a transformation. The new engine was finally built Spec includes Apex rods, Wisco forged pistons, Tomei Poncams, Balanced (ish) bottom end, SR20DE throttle body, RC 1000cc injectors. All this now controlled but a VEMS ECU.
When the engine was spec'd it was hoped that it would brake 400BHP. It was taken down to Norris Designs and mapped on and engine dyno there and while we were a bit disappointed by the 375Bhp and 1.75Bar looking at the graph it was a nice smooth torque curve.
The new engine didn't make it in for the first round at Donnington due to not having enough time to get it installed.
Got it in and running for the 2nd round at Knockhill but only running actuator pressure as we could not get the VEMS boost controller to work. As it turns out this had not been set up on the engine dyno as they are used an independent boost controller ::) Very frustrating as I was quicker than a lot of cars in the corners but got killed in a straight line :(
3rd round at Silverstone and that car started suffering trigger issue (which had shown up at the end of the qualifying session at Knockhil but Id worked out what it was at the time). The car started missing quite badly to the point in qualifying going over the start / finish line at Silver stone I dipped the clutch and the engine stalled! Which meant I went into Copse corner with no server or power steering :o
Eventually i think we have tracked the problem down to the CAS with the custom trigger disk in. I now have 2 but neither of them seem to work 100% :( I think they are over heating on track and then miss reading.
On a positive not I had finally got the boost controller to do something but it only set up in Force Duty mode. While this gave me more boost it also seemed to spike quite badly so Ive turned the % back down a bit.
4th round Id swapped back to the older CAS even though this has miss behaved before and I had badly bent the disk taking it apart in testing before the event it gave no errors compared to the new CAS with the newer thicker disk. Unfortunately due to having to drive to the event at Oulton Park I think it started to over heat again and it started missing again the in warm up session. I was so worried it would miss just as I was on the limit going over Clay Hill and send me into a spin! :o
As it turned out this was the least on my worries. I must had opened the bonnet to try and get the engine bay temps down. But being out in the paddock in the wind and rain I must had not left the bonnet fully up.
Having repaired the rear window demister I went back out in the next session... forgetting to put the bonnet back down properly. Just starting my first flying lap and it flew open smashing it and the windscreen. :o :-[
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But though the map it self in the VEMS seems good I'm still having issues getting the engine running as well as Id like it too.
My current issues are: -
1)Boost control
Now I finally have the solenoid working using force duty is there a guide to setting it up properly? I can get it up to ~1.75 Bar but it seem rather unstable and prone to spiking. I would like to be able to get it smoother and not come in with a big spike. I'm guessing the boost controller can be more sophisticated but I don't get what all the settings mean.
2) Hot Idle
When the car is really warm (track session, sitting in traffic) it will not idle. When cold it idles really quite smoothly but when hot it will hunt and then drop the revs to the point it will cut out. Makes driving it when hot very difficult. I have compared the idle setting to the settings in SMs VEMS install and they are all the same. The only real difference I can see between the installs is SMs MAP sensor is in the engine bay while mine is part of the ECU.
Could it be the length of boost hose from the manifold to the sensor causing issues (the boost gage is tapped into the line too at the mo)
Or could it be the MAT sensor getting heat soak. I have left it idling when it warms up and the MAT is reading up to >50c as it starts hunting and cutting out.
Or is the MAT right and its just breathing in that hot air and this is causing it to cut? Need for better cold air feeds to the filter?
3) The CAS trigger errors
Im guessing this is something specific to the CA but it seems the trigger issues I have are down to the CAS. As then Ive swapped between them the symptoms change. Some times they are fine mostly on the road, apart from testing the old CAS after silverstone when it keep over heating and stopping the car.
The issues seem heat related but it is just im rebuilding the CAS units wrong? Should I get another disk and CAS and have another go?
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Hi mate, thanks for putting the project up.
Boost control - the best description for the setup of that boost control is when you press F1 when its setup window is open. If you are getting strange spikes then take a look at the Connection option 1 for the boost solenoid in the User Guide:
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MembersPage%2FPhatBob%2FUserGuide
It works more as an adjustable bleed valve:
(http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSUserManual/BoostValveInternal.png)
Hot Idle - James's 1JZ Skyline also does something similar when hot, which is strange. I am wondering if its the Idle Air Controller fighting with the Inlet Air temp retard. You could try going into Settings->Constants and disabling the MAT dependent retard option Be careful the MAT retard is a safety feature which helps lower the chances of detonation so only do this at idle, dont race with it turned off.
CAS Issues - There are a good number of those CAS disks being used without a problem. It could be that you have been unlucky with that spare one, or you might be doing something frightful with them during assembly ;) Chances are that there was a problem with that second one as its behaviour was worse than the original. If someone in the SXOC can give you a spare, get it sent to me, I'll put the thing together and send it on to you.
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Boost control - the best description for the setup of that boost control is when you press F1 when its setup window is open.
Ah I was looking for help on the "Boost Controller Settings" window. If I hit F1 on there I just get a generic help page about "User-Defined Data Editor"
On the "Boost Alternate Setting" window I get this
Choose Alternate boostcontrol = enabled
Start with 48mS period if you dont know that your solenoid wants different
Force duty = disabled to fill in all settings
actuator off below this pressure = 95-110 kpa, 110 for small turbo
boostcontrol target offset, 100 is recommended here. to get TPS scaling working properly
For Low and High Reference settings, read the end of this screen for method
Control Method, Ref-DC + Ctrl recommended
Low Limit, 20 recommended, distance from target the system starts to regulate
Dot Multiplier = 0 recommended to start with, if you have slow boost buildup close to target, raise this
Output channel setup as usual, Activated output = raised boost, if your solenoid acts differently, invert the output
To get this control system up and running, we need to find Low and High boost reference pressure and Duty
A good method to set these up is to force duty cycle using the Force Duty option, then try to find the lowest duty setting that raises boost above your wastegate spring setting
Do this by entering a duty in High Ref Duty setting, and test drive it. Be careful and remember to set a high boost fuelcut in basic settings
Then repeat the same for the highest pressure you would like, then enter these values in High+Low Ref duty + MAP settings, and you are ready to tune your boost target table<br>
Which looks like its been truncated as it doesn't seem to explain all the setting. Have I got a dodgy help file?
To swap to option 1 solenoid set up, what would I use as an restricter?
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Hot Idle - James's 1JZ Skyline also does something similar when hot, which is strange. I am wondering if its the Idle Air Controller fighting with the Inlet Air temp retard. You could try going into Settings->Constants and disabling the MAT dependent retard option Be careful the MAT retard is a safety feature which helps lower the chances of detonation so only do this at idle, dont race with it turned off.
OK, Ill give that a try when I get the car back. Im presuming it is a safety feature that retards the timing when the charge temp gets really high? Any idea what temp this activates or is it a calculated value?
Ive got a datalog of a cold start up to the point it starts having issues. Would that show up in the log?
CAS Issues - There are a good number of those CAS disks being used without a problem. It could be that you have been unlucky with that spare one, or you might be doing something frightful with them during assembly ;) Chances are that there was a problem with that second one as its behaviour was worse than the original. If someone in the SXOC can give you a spare, get it sent to me, I'll put the thing together and send it on to you.
I was wandering if this would be a possibility that you could put one together for me. :) See if its my CAS disassembly / reassembly skills that are a bit lacking. I think I should be able to source another CAS.
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The MAT retard starts at 40degC inlet temps.
There are a large number of factors with the RPM oscillation, that PID controller can be a real sod to get working nicely. We had fun with Paz's original install because he had no IACV on his throttle bodies, so to stop the car stalling we put 35deg advance down in the bottom left cell on the ignition map - each time the engine went to stall it would hit the advance spike and rev up again. It was a nasty way of doing things but he didnt care as he wasn't thinking about using it on the road (where it would be horrible).
As a simple anti-stall device it seemed quite good.
One of the differences between yours and Kevs could possibly be as simple as the position of the throttle stop - if your IACV is working harder to control the idle speed because the throttle is better shut than his then the tune of the PID is going to be more obvious.
The problem is the number of variables that you have: IAC control, Ignition advance control, position of the throttle plate, condition of the IACV, vacuum at idle (are there differences in cam timing?), ignition advance at idle.
It would be interesting to see what RPM yours and Kevs sit at with the Idle Advance Controller disabled, even better would be to do the comparison with the IACV out of the scenario - I cant remember if the valve remains closed or open when its disconnected. Eitherway matching the RPM, Lambda, and ignition advance at tickover with as many of the variables removed from the equation would be a great way to start tuning your idle characteristics.
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The MAT retard starts at 40degC inlet temps.
Humm well that may be having an effect as Ive seem temps well over 50degC when it misbehaving.
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Well turning off the MAT retard didn't stop the idle issues when the inlet temps were over 40c.
But now ive even more fun problem. I went out to set up the alternative boost control settings on Thursday. When to try and find the lowest setting and was surprised to find how high I had to set the solenoid duty to make and effect. Then went to find the high duty setting for full boost and had to turn the duty up more than I have had to before.
I was just about to call it a day as the lap top kept turning it self off as it was getting too hot but on that run the car developed a constant miss fire on boost. Not like the occasional miss fire I have had with the miss reading CASs. It seemed to go away when the car had cooled but then on the drive over to TotB it was back again.
I turned the boost controller off on the way there but as soon as the car made over about at bar off boost it was back again.
Swapped plugs, coil packs, between various CASs and the PTU but nothing seem to make much difference so the few limited runs I did have I effective had a 4000 rev limit (Ive checked at a standstill that the rev limit still is at 7400).
Going to wire the CAS independently of the OE loom and replace the fuel pump but it a hard one to track down as it only shows up under load.
Drove the car back from TotB as well as it ever has... well as well as you can drive a red hold stripped out car that wont idle, with a twin plate clutch, loooong first gear in miles on stop start traffic! LOL
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Okay so we need to do some more tuning at idle then.
First up I think we'll need to try some flyback diodes across your IACV and the boost solenoid, these should make things cleaner.
Then we'll see whats happening with the hot idle - which you'll need to datalog.
If you didnt get any diodes in your rescue pack I'll bung some in the post along with the crimps I promised you.
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Ermm, what does a flyback diode looks like then?
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Small black electronic components with a white stripe on one end.
I've put two in an envelope anyway.
Rob
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Arrived to day :)
Where do the flyback diodes need to go?
Ive reset up the TPS, wired up the cold start so now it should not be perminatly on. Was too late by then to try firing it up and setting it natual warm idle. :(
Cant belive Id not realised that the cold idle was perminatly on and that it wasnt attached to the engine when it was mapped. ::)
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Just drew up this:
(http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSUserManual/FlybackWiring.png)
Let me know if it makes any sense or not.
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Yep that makes sence. Is there any where prefereable in the loom to add them?
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Up by the solenoid is fairly simple.
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Ah, I feared you might say that. Its buried right down behind the suspention turret because of how shot that bit of loom is ::)
Managed to get to the car early enough to fire it up toay. Altered the next row timing down to 15. this seemedto smoooththe idle a fair bit.
With the ICA dissconnected I get the warm idle to about 1000rpm with a bit of hunting. But no matter what i set the idle to using the screw whhen i plugged the ICA it didnt make any diference ???
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It should make a difference when cold, as the valve will start open and PWM itself closed in a nice progressive (if tuned nicely) manner.
Idle is a sod to get right, I've spent ages getting mine to idle nicely, it kind of does now, but thats taken a load of work with springs and throttle plates and so on.
Rob
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PWM? Am I unplugging the correct thing? Must be as there aint anything else the VEMS controls around there?
May be the valve isnt working. I can hear it clicking away when the ignition is on but it had no noticeable effect on the idle no matter what i set it too with the screw.
I can see a smooth idle being hard to set up but all I want is it to not stall all the time when its hot. I realise now that the test last night was a bit fake as the bonnet was not on the car at all.
Any ideas what my bad on boost miss fire could be? Im beginning to wander if the FPR is on its way out as I could smell petrol when it was missing on the motorway... or may be an injector seal. Arg.
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If you hear it clicking when the ignition is on then the solenoid is firing (btw to stop it clicking when the engine is not running go to Extras->Idle PID ref table, PWM and set the entries under IAC position while starting to 100 to have the IAC fully open when starting or 0 to have it fully clothed.
Have you tried fiddling with the Idle control IAC position reference table in that screen to adjust the throttle position? If you set them all to 100 then the IAC should be open all the time, once again setting them to 0 will close it - this will help diganose the operation of the IACV.
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Nope not played with that yet as I didn't know what it did. Think i see the idea now but the data in it seems a bit odd. In the main ref table the values go:
70
65
60
55
50
45
40
35
50
Would you not think the last, warmed up cell would be 30?
I will have a play with that table tonight and see if the valve is broke and swap it if needed.
Any way have made some progress now. Have left the IAC unplugged for the moment as it didn't seem to do anything. But I have now powered the OE cold fast idle valve from what would have been the power to the fuel pump (the fuel pump now has a direct feed from the battery) so that valve should be shut when warm. Now the car will hunt when warm but will actually idle and stalls a lot less often :)
Also replaced the fuel pump and filter. and when inspecting the boost lines found one had started to split around one of the reducer joins to get it on to the back on the vems. I have replaced this now by just forcing the bigger tube over the threaded part of the senor on the vems and zip tyeing it!
Took it out for a short run and this seems to have curred the bad miss fire I was getting on boost :D
Had a look at the data log and it is still getting wobbly RPM. But I think I have got loom issues as the laptop started throwing configuration string error warnings until I unplugged and replug the vems. Then it would not start and it seemed to have lost the CAS signal completely and was not seeing any RPM at all. Again prodding around at the loom and plugging the vems back in solved this so I think I will run a new shielded cable to the CAS directly from the VEMS.
Any recommendations of what cable to use?
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You need 4 core screened cable, I'd suggest this: http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=137&doy=4m8&C=SO&U=strat15 but ideally the cores would have a larger diameter. Are there any audio shops near you? The ideal stuff is the stuff they use for stage audio as its tougher than home stuff.
I use http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=133&doy=4m8 for the REF and POS CAS signals on the adaptor you have, if you were to get two lengths of this, join the screens together and ground them on one of the CAS bolts with a ring terminal, then use the four for REF, POS, +12v and ground you'd have a pretty well shielded connection.
What ever you do dont disconnect the ground wire on EC36pin26 from the ground cluster. Connect the REF and POS signals to the EC36 pins, the +12v should be fed from the ECCS relay (there is a spare ECCS pin on the connector) and the ground wire should join the ground cluster on the harness adaptor.
Also dont underestimate the amount of effort required to get the adaptor and loom plugs to connect together well, that bolt has to be mega tight and its not a bad idea to use cable ties through the 3 screw holes on the male plug to pull plugs tight and ensure they dont 'walk' apart.
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K, got 2 lots of the 2 core cable and a load of 6mm ring connectors (as never seem to have enough of them. Not wired it up yet though.
Had a play with the Idle control IAC position reference table and the idle control screw last night. Got it to idle quite nicely when warm and turned the lambda control off when idling... unfortunately it seem to have messed up the cold idle now! lol. Don't think its getting enough air so either the cold idle valve still is not working correctly and / or the idle control valve is not open enough so the IAC can not let enough air in for cold idle... I think.
Still I was quite surprised how you can control the idle speed by tabbing between fields on the laptop. I was expecting to have to burn the settings to the VEMS before they take effect 8)
Its also sooooo nice not to have to keep bliping the throttle when pulling up at a junction. :D
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Well the idle ain't bad at all now but...
AAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGG the on full boost miss is back again. Though the fuel pump / filter / boost hose change had fixed it but is back again.
Its less of a miss, more of it feels like its holding back and making a constant purring type noise and it just does not want pull. It does pull through it but very slowly.
Checked fuel pressure yesterday and adjusted it so reasonably confident that fueling is OK. I think if it was that bad it would have melted a piston by now.
New plugs, another set of coil packs, new CAS wiring in and its not making any difference. I'm running out of idea unless its a fault in the vems unit?
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What
Boost
LAmbda at said boost
type of coils and external amp?
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Damn shame we didnt get datalogs when it was good to test it when it was bad.
I'm not sure how we can point at the VEMS as being a problem, but we can do all we can to test it and find out what your issues are.
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Well only that its one for the few parts in the ignition system that we have not tried swapping yet.
Well the brands event created more issues... After staying up till the early hours with Kev on Friday night we found the car would run fine as long as it stayed under 20PSI. Actuator pressure on it at the mo is 16/17 PSI so at least I had something I could race with on Sunday.
On Sunday morning we tried raising the boost up to 20PSI as I was soooo slow compared to the other cars on the straights. Kept turning the force duty up but it made no difference. Tried plugging the solenoid into SMs car and found it would fire when testing it. Testing on mine it just clicked once.
Is the signal from the VEMS meant to oscillate between 0 and 12 volts? As it seems to be a flat 12V when we tested it with a multi metre.
So resorted to a old school bleed to bring the boost up. This seemed to work quite well. brought the boost up to 20PSI... until I think I straddled the exit Kirby on graham hill bend and bounced the exhaust of it. Came in to the pits a few laps later with only 3PSI of boost, 3 badly stretched turbo to manifold studs and one completely missing!
Tried to do a stud swap in the 2 hours over lunch... unfortunately lunch was cut short by 30 mins so didnt get back out for the qualifying session :( Though did get the car running again before the finals, was very close to making it out in the qualifying session.
Ive had a better quality manifold and down pipe waiying to go on, but havnt had the time to fit them. Have to now as the current manifold is scrap.
Will this cause to big a difference to the map that is in the VEMS at the mo?
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Well only that its one for the few parts in the ignition system that we have not tried swapping yet.
True, but as you found that replacing a split hose made the problem go away for a short while It does suggest that it might be related to that.
Well the brands event created more issues... After staying up till the early hours with Kev on Friday night we found the car would run fine as long as it stayed under 20PSI. Actuator pressure on it at the mo is 16/17 PSI so at least I had something I could race with on Sunday.
Where are you getting the pressure reading from? If its a sperate boost reading Are you able to compare the kpa values in the datalogs with the peak boost that you're seeing on the gauge? If there is a leak it might only start over a certain pressure.
On Sunday morning we tried raising the boost up to 20PSI as I was soooo slow compared to the other cars on the straights. Kept turning the force duty up but it made no difference. Tried plugging the solenoid into SMs car and found it would fire when testing it. Testing on mine it just clicked once.
Is the signal from the VEMS meant to oscillate between 0 and 12 volts? As it seems to be a flat 12V when we tested it with a multi metre.
So you've tried the same solenoid on yours and Kevs and it behaves correctly on Kevs? When its pulsing it will oscillate, it will obviously change depending on boost pressure. Can you pull the EC36pin plug off the VEMS and measure resistance between the 12v feed on the four pin plug and the wire that grounds the boost solenoid (its one of the FET pins I dont remember which off the top of my head).
So resorted to a old school bleed to bring the boost up. This seemed to work quite well. brought the boost up to 20PSI... until I think I straddled the exit Kirby on graham hill bend and bounced the exhaust of it. Came in to the pits a few laps later with only 3PSI of boost, 3 badly stretched turbo to manifold studs and one completely missing!
Tried to do a stud swap in the 2 hours over lunch... unfortunately lunch was cut short by 30 mins so didnt get back out for the qualifying session :( Though did get the car running again before the finals, was very close to making it out in the qualifying session.
Bugger, thats not going to help the fault finding :(
Can we recap on the way the MAP tube is connected to the ecu? From the manifold to the VEMS.
Ive had a better quality manifold and down pipe waiying to go on, but havnt had the time to fit them. Have to now as the current manifold is scrap.
Will this cause to big a difference to the map that is in the VEMS at the mo?
That's almost impossible to say, if you get better midrange VE you may find that you get detonation as the advance may be too much, or you might just find that it runs a little lean.
If you're taking the manifold off to repair the studs you'd be better off replacing the manifold.
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Well only that its one for the few parts in the ignition system that we have not tried swapping yet.
True, but as you found that replacing a split hose made the problem go away for a short while It does suggest that it might be related to that.
I am begining to think that one of the duel valve springs may have broken and I am getting valve bounce / float over a certain boost. Its only a theory but the symtoms match very well and it is not an obiouse fuel or spark issue.
Well the brands event created more issues... After staying up till the early hours with Kev on Friday night we found the car would run fine as long as it stayed under 20PSI. Actuator pressure on it at the mo is 16/17 PSI so at least I had something I could race with on Sunday.
Where are you getting the pressure reading from? If its a sperate boost reading Are you able to compare the kpa values in the datalogs with the peak boost that you're seeing on the gauge? If there is a leak it might only start over a certain pressure.
Unfortuantly no. I really must fix this and totaly rearange the boost lines in the car. Whould a boost leak effect the vems as its MAP rather than MAF basid?
On Sunday morning we tried raising the boost up to 20PSI as I was soooo slow compared to the other cars on the straights. Kept turning the force duty up but it made no difference. Tried plugging the solenoid into SMs car and found it would fire when testing it. Testing on mine it just clicked once.
Is the signal from the VEMS meant to oscillate between 0 and 12 volts? As it seems to be a flat 12V when we tested it with a multi metre.
So you've tried the same solenoid on yours and Kevs and it behaves correctly on Kevs? When its pulsing it will oscillate, it will obviously change depending on boost pressure. Can you pull the EC36pin plug off the VEMS and measure resistance between the 12v feed on the four pin plug and the wire that grounds the boost solenoid (its one of the FET pins I dont remember which off the top of my head).
Will do. No, we had the lap top to turned the "Turn off the controler below this presure" down to 0 so the solinoid will start clicking away. Doing this on Kevs car it clicked away happily. On mine it was silent.
So resorted to a old school bleed to bring the boost up. This seemed to work quite well. brought the boost up to 20PSI... until I think I straddled the exit Kirby on graham hill bend and bounced the exhaust of it. Came in to the pits a few laps later with only 3PSI of boost, 3 badly stretched turbo to manifold studs and one completely missing!
Tried to do a stud swap in the 2 hours over lunch... unfortunately lunch was cut short by 30 mins so didnt get back out for the qualifying session :( Though did get the car running again before the finals, was very close to making it out in the qualifying session.
Bugger, thats not going to help the fault finding :(
Can we recap on the way the MAP tube is connected to the ecu? From the manifold to the VEMS.
Currently, badly probably.
The Map tube is attached to the manifold via the nipple just behind the throttle, then goes to the back of the bay, accross the back wall of the bay, out the left inner wing and then into the cabin via the back of the wheel well. Where it Ts with the manual boost gauge and then to the VEMS its self.
Mmmm, Yeah that sounds bad!
Ive had a better quality manifold and down pipe waiying to go on, but havnt had the time to fit them. Have to now as the current manifold is scrap.
Will this cause to big a difference to the map that is in the VEMS at the mo?
That's almost impossible to say, if you get better midrange VE you may find that you get detonation as the advance may be too much, or you might just find that it runs a little lean.
If you're taking the manifold off to repair the studs you'd be better off replacing the manifold.
Aye, its only possible to put 2 studs and one nut and bolt through that manifold now :o
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I am begining to think that one of the duel valve springs may have broken and I am getting valve bounce / float over a certain boost. Its only a theory but the symtoms match very well and it is not an obiouse fuel or spark issue.
Well its possible, but that wouldnt explain the "intermittent fix" caused by replacing the split hose.
Unfortuantly no. I really must fix this and totaly rearange the boost lines in the car. Whould a boost leak effect the vems as its MAP rather than MAF basid?
Massively and completely, as its a primary sensor its vital that it gets the correct pressure or the ECU will not calculate the engine load correctly - which could be disaterous.
Will do. No, we had the lap top to turned the "Turn off the controler below this presure" down to 0 so the solinoid will start clicking away. Doing this on Kevs car it clicked away happily. On mine it was silent.
Did you use the flyback diode? That will stop the clicking. The fact you've had some success with this before is significant.
Currently, badly probably.
The Map tube is attached to the manifold via the nipple just behind the throttle, then goes to the back of the bay, accross the back wall of the bay, out the left inner wing and then into the cabin via the back of the wheel well. Where it Ts with the manual boost gauge and then to the VEMS its self.
Mmmm, Yeah that sounds bad!
You're frightening me now! The MAP sensor is of primary importance and should never be shared with any other device, I've seen the aftermath (a head destroyed) of when a boost guage failed and started bleeding air so that the ecu saw a fraction of the boost pressure that was acutally being produced. The boost controller kept the bleed open (as it was reading low boost) the ecu kept the ignition advance up (for the same reason)... It wasnt a VEMS install but the laws are the same. What was done to make sure it never happened again is what I'd suggest now: Find a local pneumatic supplies place, there are hundreds of them about, and get a threadedpush-fit fitting: (http://store.norgren.com/resources/sku/CompactViewUK/0000002001/2372.jpg) that will take the correct tube for your ECU, for the boost guage and for the turbo's wastegate, fuel pressure regulator, drill and tap the manifold for them and block the rest of the holes off. Then run one tube per item. I've been to a couple of places and always found the blokes to be helpful and interested (because they dont tend to see car applications).
Then not only will you have a proper setup, it looks the business too.
I'm not saying that this will solve the problem but... its the correct way to do an install.
Aye, its only possible to put 2 studs and one nut and bolt through that manifold now :o
So your car cant have been that slow in order to hit it that hard :P I saw your lap times and they werent too awful.
The next ones at Snetterton isnt it? Thats my local track, let me know the date and I'll put it in the diary and if the worse come to the worse I'll push your car round the track to make sure you're running ;)
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Its 12th October @ Snetterton.
Your allowed a technician in the car for the first session, as long as they have a laptop or similar and are working on car setup. We can get you a team pass for the pits no problem :)
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Just read through the thread, lots of interesting information on the fault finding. How did Snetterton go? have you sorted any of the issues?