VEMS Community Forum
Members => Projects & Installs => Topic started by: gox on August 26, 2007, 11:34:31 pm
-
Hello British ppl :P
I`m curently makeing wire harness for my M20 2.7 engine then going turbo.
Engine specs:
stock 60-2 wheel with VR sensor
Schrick 288 cam
forged 324td crank
130mm rods
low compression pistons
t04e turbocharger in the beginning then going to Schwitzer S3
55lb injectors lowZ
Split pulse equal lenght turbo manifold
XXXL front mount intercooler...
....
;) i`ll post some pics as soon as i get the engine working ;)
Gogi
-
2.7 liters? So you have a BMW 325e?
-
nope :)
curently eta bottom "i" head,"i" pistons,"eta" rods
i wrote 2.7i ;)
-
Gotcha.
I have a friend installing VEMS on his 1987 BMW 325is. He should be starting a thread here soon. Maybe we could answer some questions you might have, as he's about 1/3 done with his install at the moment. Keep up the good work.
-
yeah,that would be great
I finished harness few minutes ago,got to wire up IAC and set it up,but firrst i need to set the tooth stuff...
Tnx
Gogi
-
Project Car ;) after i get it working,its going to be painted and "get dressed" in Mtech2 and Alpina 17" rims
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/20070520132038dsc8958on0.jpg)
-
After short problems that i resolved an hour ago,i can continue working on the car.Problem was calibrating Wideband,it remains to wire all things up to EC36 and EC18,test for spark and go on...
Since this is my first Standalon Engine Managment expirience i`m doing it very slowly,and i have a lot of job to do beside my car so....takes a lot of time to get it done.
Here are some pics taken few weeks ago,testing Genboard,makeing harness...
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/VEMS076.jpg)
Me makeing relais ;)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/1.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/2-1.jpg)
Injectors wiring
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/4-1.jpg)
Overview
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/5-1.jpg)
Problems again?? ahhhh....lets read ;)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/6-1.jpg)
Got two more hands,that nice...
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/7-1.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/8-1.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/9-1.jpg)
I will continue with wiring tomorrow and try to get spark....
-
Yeah the wiring is... fun ::) Keep us up to date with the spark and good luck!
-
:)
I`m doing this install realy realy slowly ;) its raining over here and its cold as hell,need to crimp the wires and push it into EC connectors,i`m using stock coil,so + is fused from relay whit "Ignition ON" and on "-" i have +12V,i have 8 IGBTS so i can use EC36-Pin35 right? i will not burn anything with this? :)
I havent made some good IGBT coolers so i dont want to hook anything to the igbt's yet but i will arange that in few days (as soon as rain stops)
Few other question related about Primary trigger setup.
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/primary-trigger.jpg)
"TDC after the trigger" is set with strobe right?
"Crank min period" - what about this one?
What are these "Tooth Relative ..." things?
Tnx guys
-
I`m doing this install realy realy slowly ;) its raining over here and its cold as hell,need to crimp the wires and push it into EC connectors,i`m using stock coil,so + is fused from relay whit "Ignition ON" and on "-" i have +12V,i have 8 IGBTS so i can use EC36-Pin35 right? i will not burn anything with this? :)
"TDC after the trigger" is set with strobe right?
"Crank min period" - what about this one?
What are these "Tooth Relative ..." things?
with 8 IGBTs EC36-pin35 is populated - even if it wasnt you'd not have a problem, the resistors in the box would mean that the coil just cant charge enough.
TDC after the trigger is set with a strobe
Crank min period is the minimum time between trigger pulses = 1/(num teeth*max rpm/60)
Tooth relative is only used when special filtering is selected
-
Update:
Did little soldering today on wires,IAT wires were short,and TPS +5V was short (i thing its +5v since its red/white) i`m using E36 TPS so need to find pinout...not shure what is what.
Looking for termal paste for cooling igbt's,i want to make shure that they are cooled enough...and i`m ready to start the engine,i think i`m getting very excited when i think on that one...
:)
Didnt have camera so pics next time,sorry
Cheers
-
What shoild i set in Ignition Settings?
h[2] = 00 only? since using EC36 Pin35 for Coil
Ignition driver type = DUMMY?
Dwell @14V = 3.00?
Dwell @ 6V = 2.50?
-
With a single coil you might want to up the dwell time to about 4.5
everything else looks fine there.
Once the sparks are okay and you decide to start reving higher you can reduce the dwell.
-
Ok i got spark tonight ;) need to set TDC after the trigger and set Injetor Settings and hear it roargh ;)
Ban what did u guys used for Injector Settings?
Tnx
/Gogi
-
I forgot to mention that i installed TS diode,i think i did it in good direction since it doesnt have the white mark on it...it had red paper on one side of the leg and the white on the other...
pin23 ---------------- |TSdiode|---- --------- Inj+Vbatt
:) sorry for drawing
-
On most multimeters there is a conductivity test. Usually it beeps when something is conductive. You can test the diode by probing both ends with the multimeter and it will beep one way and not the other and that way you know the anode and cathode.
-
Ban what did u guys used for Injector Settings?
You do mean me, right? ;)
Uhh, I'll grab Dan's Injector Settings tonight when we run his car against my brother's Sentra SE-R (yes he as the same car I do) for benchmarking purposes.
-
The specs are up in Dan's thread.
-
Yes i mean you BEn :)
Thank you guys you are awesome! :)
I`ll try to start the car tonight....
-
I tryed to start the car but no sucess!
It comes up on few cylinder (2-3) and its cranking that way,doesnt come up with all six,i tryed lowering req_fuel - notting,i was playing with Priming,Cranking and Afterstart there are some changes but anyways it only cranks and starts on few cylinders,it is not idling on few cylinder its just cranking and i can hear few cyls fires up but notting...
I used Bens Priming,Cranking and Afterstart settings i was increasing and decrasing values but notting,always the same,i put out spark on cyl1 and it was little wet,so i`m flooded,i got Pulse Width gauge in MT on 3ms
if set it to 0ms there is no fuel.
What would you sugest to try changeing to try to get it running?
Engine havent run in month or two...
What values are connected with starting?
I hate stupid problems,there is fuel,there is spark and its not working....awwww
I will post my config and tables
-
http://www.geocities.com/meni_323i/config.txt
http://www.geocities.com/meni_323i/tables.txt
dont know where to host msq....?!
-
Sounds like things are getting wet on cranking or afterstart.
Take thing back to the beginning. Pull your plugs out to let the engine dry out, and give the plugs a clean.
Take the fuel pump fuse or injector supply fuse (or both) out, and spin the engine over to get all the fuel out of the bores.
Put the plugs back in, and check that you are getting a spark on each cylinder.
In the Settings->Priming Cranking and After Start:
Set the priming pulse to 0
Set the cranking threshold to 3000 - you'll set it back to 300 later, but this is a way of forcing the pulsewidth and will give you an idea of what PW you're looking for for starting and idling.
Set both Cranking PWs to your Req Fuel amount, and try starting the car, if it back fires out the inlet then you're probably lean, so add more to the cold cranking value to increase the overall amount.
How are your inejctors connected: Are you firing sequentially, or batch?
-
Ok,i`ll try everything tomorrow.
I`m firing injectors 5..0,sequentially and it is set to fira All Banks while cranking i will switch that to Alternate
-
Trigger Errors :(
I have info on my homepage (bottom of the page is update)
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MemberPage%2FMilanaPerisic (http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MemberPage%2FMilanaPerisic)
-
Update:
Car started up two days ago and i did some tuning last night and got it running realy nice,there are some more spots that needs tuning,mostly on higher rpm load.
I will post my maps later.
:)
Tnx everyone who helped me!
-
Congratulations. =]
-
sweet, it feels good doesn't it?
-
The car is now running very nice,it need more tuning at high rpms and loads.Its running much better then on motronic and i found out that these injectors are small,as i have seen 101% duty cycle :( I will install 19lb's ones as soon as possible...
:)
It feels great :)
Still dont have idle control... :-\
-
What happens if you set the idle control to on/off type?
-
Well i dont have idle valve at all...didnt tryed to set that stock stepper valve,but i will.
Cold starts are problems,when warm its starts excellent...
How do i tune Warmup? I think thats the problem....
-
You need to try fresh each morning and possibly each night, start with a richer than needed mixture and lean it out. Its tricky to try and explain.
-
Congrats on getting the car running well!
Dan sees the same 100% or more for injector duty cycle. It seems BMW didn't expect many trips to the redline in these cars. Either that or they have super awesome injectors. =]
Cold start has a few main factors as far as I can tell. One of them is the amount of idle valve opening at cold temps. If you don't have your idle control hooked up, you might have trouble with getting cold start to work correctly.
Also, make sure the rpm valve where it switches from cranking to "afterstart" is something like 200-400. I had mine at 500 for a while there, and that caused me all sorts of problems, as the car never got over 500 rpms while cranking, so it never switch to the "afterstart" mode, where it gives it a bunch of fuel to kick it up to idle speeds.
-
Congrats on getting the car running well!
Dan sees the same 100% or more for injector duty cycle. It seems BMW didn't expect many trips to the redline in these cars. Either that or they have super awesome injectors. =]
Cold start has a few main factors as far as I can tell. One of them is the amount of idle valve opening at cold temps. If you don't have your idle control hooked up, you might have trouble with getting cold start to work correctly.
Also, make sure the rpm valve where it switches from cranking to "afterstart" is something like 200-400. I had mine at 500 for a while there, and that caused me all sorts of problems, as the car never got over 500 rpms while cranking, so it never switch to the "afterstart" mode, where it gives it a bunch of fuel to kick it up to idle speeds.
Thanx :) i found that that dan's lamda table is not good,so i talked to Mattias as he has tuned multiple BMW m20 engine,turbo and N/A and we made a new one,and belive me when u tune the car with that lamda target value,it runs much better...i have some more spots to tune,but it runs like it never did :) 2nd gear cant get traction until limiter or until i release throtle a bit.But than i saw in my logs that i have 101% duty cycle and i heard engine knocking at 3rd gear above 5000rpm,added some more fuel and knock stoped...but it needs more fuel and injectors cant give more :( so i found 6 injector from 325i 24v that are ~192cc that should be fine...i just want to tune the car go to dyno and then start my tubo build.
I have my cranking rpm set to 400...so that should be fine...i will try to set that stupid idle valve and see how it goes...do you have any values for stepper to begin with? I`m not so good at those PID things ;D
I realy like this standalone thing,and i think i made a best choice i could,vems is realy great and for that kind of money you cant actualy get anything.... :)
Thank's to all of you guys who helped me :)
-
Great to hear things are running well. Since you seem to have a better lambda target table going on, do you mind sharing it with us? We'd love to take a look at it, as Dan's car doesn't seem to have the power you describe. =]
Edit: It just occurred to me that Dan never posted his new lambda target table. We realized his old one was pretty rich a while ago but never posted his new table. I'd still like to see what you came up with, but I think Dan's posting his new table up in his thread as we speak. He still doesn't have the power you describe (loss of traction towards the top of second), but maybe he keeps traction in second because of his great tires. =]
-
Hehe ;) Well i have good 205/50 R15 tires and 3.64 LSD,it realy runs much much better then he used to run on motronic.
I just take a look at his table,and i think you guys are very lean...esspecialy at higher load where engine needs fuel,thats why you dont have so much power....i noticed too that the engine is very quite now when it has fuel....
What EGT do you see with that lamda table that are you using? Stock one runs 780C,so you should try to stay in that area to be safe.
Here's my map ;) try it:
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/lamdatable-1.jpg)
-
Here is my spark table,i will have dyno tuning this weekand (day said it will be free for weekands) so i will try to tune a spark for bit,i`ll post the results of dyno and everything.
On motronic i had 159whp@6200 and 225Nm od torque with 205/50 R15
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/sparktable.jpg)
-
I just take a look at his table,and i think you guys are very lean..
We know we are running much leaner than you. Dan's original lambda target table looks almost exactly like what you're using right now. When we tuned to it, he was slower than stock. Tuned to his new table, we've got him ever-so-slightly faster than stock with no sign of knock at all. I'd love to see a log of a 3rd gear pull in your car from 1.5k to 6.5k rpms. E-mail the log to me at [email protected] if you would please. I'd love to take a look at it.
What EGT do you see with that lamda table that are you using?
We didn't get the EGT hooked up with the car N/A so we have no idea. =(
-
Hmmm, theres a point - if you can both find flat long straights of road and datalog power runs through each gear then it could be interesting to compare the two against each other - the logs should be able to show the fuel and spark at each point on the curve and you might be able to work out by the gradient of the rpm trace which part of the map is most effective and at which point.
Does that make sense?
Rob
-
Yep it does make sense,i need to tune my high rpms more,and its raining for two days here,so i dont like being at hight speeds at those wet and dirty roads,but as soon as i get a chance i will do a datalog of every speed so we can compare.I`m not an expert in tuning :) this is my first tuning expirience,have in mind that i have schrick cam,but you have beter intake manifold :)
-
Too bad we never made those logs :(
I`m currently in building my engine (i have another m20 that i want to turbo)
As soon as my pressure plate arrives,i`ll continue my work and update the thread too! :)
-
The 618 is a good PP. It creates a heavy clutch feel, but I preffer it more than factory. What kind of clutch are you going to run? Im running 6-puck unsprung and it engages like factory, but then again I'm used to the 6-pucks.
-
i was planning to use 6 puck sinter too...
i think 618 with 6 puck can handle 700Nm?
-
yeah i don't think it will be a problem.
-
Uhhhh....didnt updated recently here is the current condition:
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/Image018-1.jpg)
Last night i have started the engine,but i dont have oil in the cylinder head,i thing the oil pump is bad...i dont know any other things that can make this problem...
Will update again...
-
Engine is working,not it needs mapping.
I will do some mapping tonight...and post news.
-
Since i have a poor quality fuel,i buy it like 95 octane but it is actually 92-93 (as they say) i cant get rid of the knock for a few weeks now...
Here is the Ignition map from Mattias,it was my starting point:
(http://savarturbo.se/%7Emattias/motor/vems_data/danp/spark_v1.jpg)
Here is the table after retarding and i`m still knocking...
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/retarded_spark.jpg)
I have msq and a log from a last night but i cant upload it vems.hu is down currently...
.
-
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/primary-trigger.jpg)
where did you get 66deg from?
did you check it with a timing light?
Mine is spot on at 72deg. Which might put yours off of about 8deg in total i.e more advanced., give or take a couple of degress.
Have you checked with a timing light?
-
Here are my settings, i checked them yesterday with the timing light at 0deg with mda01 and its fine...
(http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MilanaPerisic/turbo/VR.JPG)
-
What is youre trigger tooth 3 or 5?
Here is the log and MSQ file:
http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MilanaPerisic/turbo/run4.xls
http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MilanaPerisic/turbo/turbo.msq
-
3
-
Drifting at Greece,Serres circuit
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/profi1.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/profi2.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/profi3.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/profi5.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/profi6.jpg)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/profi7.jpg)
-
where are you from?
-
I`m from Serbia,Novi Sad - the city at northern part,~130km to Hungarian border
-
I see, that is why Greece is near there!!Im from Greece
what kind of compression do you run on the motor? your advance is quite small on the top end.What kind of turbo are you using as well?
-
Ooooh cool :)
Its a 8.5:1 and its a huge Schwitzer S3 turbo,i will switch to Holset HX40 over the winter,since drifting season is over ;)
Yes,advance is small,everything bigger and it starts to knock... :-\
-
even with 8.5:1 compression it knocks? that is interesting.esp since you only run up to 1.5(250kpa) bar boost.
have you checked that the ignition timing trigger is correct with a strobe light? It will make a big difference
im going to fit an HX super 40 on my rs2 next year as well.
Why are you changing from schwitzer to holset?
-
yes,i`m running only 1bar boost but tables are up to 1.5bar
I did check the timing with strobe couple of times and its fine,i think the main reason is low quality fuel...
I`m going to HX40 because its a smaller turbo and i`m using this car for drift only,so i need as much torque as i can get down low,but i need high range of power also,up to 7000rpm...
-
Tables currently running:
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/spark-final.png)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/lambda-final.png)
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/ve-final.png)
-
even with 8.5:1 compression it knocks? that is interesting.esp since you only run up to 1.5(250kpa) bar boost.
have you checked that the ignition timing trigger is correct with a strobe light? It will make a big difference
Audi is more like exception not rule!
-
looks likes engine likes this ignition....been drfting with it for year and a half now and now signs of any damage,i opened the engine when i was switching the chassis,everything looks the way it was when i build it :)
-
any theoretical explanation why my engine needs such a retarded ignition? :-\
-
none i can think of. It looks like it is as Gintis says. Audi may be an exception.
i use 98 pump gas and have 20Deg on 280kpa and 18deg on 306kpa on around 9:1 compression and it seems to be fine! Much richer mixture (about 0.75-0.73 on high revs) but pulls like a train and no knock.
-
Well this one pulls hard too...i`m drifting with it in 3rd gear...fast and slow tracks,no different.
I`m going to install H1E over the winter,its much smaller then this huge Schwitzer S3,so i hope i`ll see boost somewhat earlier ;)
-
Today i removed the huge Schwitzer and the Holset will sit in its place...
I would like to update the firmware since i`m running on old 1.0.73 with not a single problem,but i've been reading firmware updates and i noticed there are a lot of improvements.
I`m not a completly noob but i`m also not a electronic expert so i would like some advices on what firmware to use on my setup.I would like to add the boost control via simple MiscOut since i use this car only for drift and i dont need any special boost control,i just want it reliable and working without problems,untill now i didnt had any type of boost control,my wastegate spring holds 0.8bar and thats what i was running ::)
I`m also planning to switch back to wastespark and see if i`m going to get IGBT's blown again...at the end i may purchase and V3 harness from webshop to try to solve blowing igbt's problem.
Any help and suggestions are welcome :)
Tnx guys
-
I mapped alot of M20´s turbo on 1.1.44alpha2
running the pwm map for boost control made boost control real easy.
-
i`ll give it a try...
tnx ;)
-
which holset are you trying? let us know the results!
-
Its H1C,looks really small comparing to a huge Schwitzer S3 :)
shure,i`ll post up results
-
Car is up and running with Holset,didnt droved it yet except 1st and 2nd gear and turbo response seems much quicker,2nd gear at ~3000rpm when i go WOT (i hold pedal for arround 3-4 seconds
) i momently have boost ~0.3-0.4 and raising,Schwitzer had 0.5-0.6bar at around ~4500-5000rpm in 2nd gear.
This weekend i`ll go test the car and see if i need a remap and i will post the logs...
:)
-
Turbo survived one drift event :) 3 days of drifting at WOT,everything works great....
One thing that is odd is the EGT,as soon as i start the car EGT start to rise up from 400C to 1250 and then it stops on 1250C and it stands there.EGT sensor is mounted at the exhaust pipe on the 6cyl.
Ignition was not remaped....i only retuned the VE values to match the lambda target,even before (with old big turbo) i noticed that the EGT sensor doesnt realy like this position (my opinion) since the pipe of the exhaust has a thick pipe wall and i thing that the sensor is not showing the real value (it rises up even on idle when i have lambda 0.95 constantly)...I was thinking about putting the sensor under the turbo flange (at the collector),what do you guys think about this position? I saw several cars at drift that use that EGT sensor position.Do i need to retard the ignition with the smaller turbine housing (earlier it was huge Schwitzer S3 now i have H1C with 16cm2 housing)?
-
If it´s been at WOT for 3days and not dead yet then no you don´t need to retard ignition.
I don´t know what purpose it should serve to move the sensor as it should be showing temps , so if it´s showing more then 1250C
then that is the temp unless there is a problem with the sensors wiring(most likely)
-
well i dont know what can be wrong with wiring... its on the panel mount connector,my coolant temp is ok,max i saw is 95C but i removed the heater radiator,so i have less water in the system,but i have bigger cooler + electric fan.
I`ll check the sensor calibration,on the bigger turbo i never saw above 900C...dont know if smaller turbo reacts somehow on the EGT?
-
Your EGT sensor or wiring is broken.
-
i`ll check it tomorrow and report back,thanks...
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJh4gvixLyM
-
Gox,updates? :)
-
Curently rebuilding the engine after 3 years of drifting :)
Pics soon,got a lot of work so i cant do anything on my car right now.
-
I just updated the firmware to 1.1.70,engine starts and runs just fine...
I didnt selected the AIR and CLT patch files when i was uploading firmware...is there any way i can select them again?
-
You have to upload a new firmware again, this time - try 1.1.88 and use only the latest VemsTune : www.vems.hu/vt
If you experience "lag" and display problems with gauges, there was a mistake with a "rtMinRefreshInterval" in config/v3gui.cfg file, just edit and replace with a high enough number. It's milliseconds between redraw, 200 would be 5 times/second.
-
i just find that out in some other topic :) think is that i first uploaded 1.1.88,and i saw that i was did a mistake and bring it back to 1.1.70 lol
Ok,i`ll put it back to 1.1.88,my cfg will work without problems?
-
btw,i`m using the last version,it did crashed one or two times under Win7...
-
Last? is from March 24.
Press the verify config button to check for warnings/errors after the upgrade. There shouldn't be too much difference.
-
Yes,because i finished car 5 days ago and decided to get rid of the old 1.0.73.This is new laptop so i didnt had any software installed....
Ok tnx,i`ll see how does it work and post logs.
-
After installing 1.1.88 and fixing the reported config errors (from ValidateConfig) i couldnt start the car.It is just cranking,rpm reading is fine,everything looks normal,but no sign of starting....I have a small cranking log.
I switched back to 1.1.70 and started the car just fine with same config.
One more odd thing is that this "new" (new piston rings,better condition pistons,rebuilt head,honed block) need much less fuel then the old one was asking at 1.0.73.For example @ idle i had VE values arround 80-82 and it was idling @ lambda 0.95,now i need arround 62-65 to idle @ lambda 1.0.Is there any change in calculating VE in new firmwares?
Here is the log:
http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MilanaPerisic/v3.3_n001036-2011.04.13-14.23.30.vemslog
-
Check your PW and compare, you´ll find the anwer there
-
After engine rebuild and firmware update from 1.0.73 to 1.1.70 my VE is completely different.Old engine was requesting more and more fuel up to 7000rpm,now new rebuilt engine is haveing high VE values only from ~3000rpm to 5000rpm after that i need to lower the VE values...
My injectors where never maxed out,now i`m seeing some creazy duty cycle numbers that gives me some headaches...I see that my alternator is haveing problems with voltage under boost,i will try to put another one,is it possible thats the reason why i`m seeing high duty cycle numbers? I will check FPR also....
How do i get rid of the lean spots just after shifting when i press wot instantly?
Here is the log to check what is going on...
http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MilanaPerisic/v3.3_n001036-2011.05.04-01.29.56.vemslog
-
Update to 1.1.88. With your last attempt to upgrade you used a too old VemsTune version and the prohibit/safety mode (dialog "ECU calibrations") prevented any outputs from working, and you had a few glaring errors in the configuration file, like TPS lookup for ignition/lambda, injector trim tables all wrong, etc. Make sure you're using the latest VemsTune when upgrading this: www.vems.hu/vt
Post here when you get into trouble and we can try to get you going on the more recent firmware.
-
I have a drift event starting at Friday,so i will stay it on this just for now,i will sort the ve a little bit more and go like this,then i will upgrade and see whats going on.Tnx ;)
-
Last weekend i visited Zagreb,Croatia for an drift event,so i left my car there to be dyno tuned ;)
I have problems with too much oil burning what makes spark plugs die after one day of drifting :( Will open the engine to see what is the problem.
Rpm limiter was set at 6000rpm since i couldnt get rid of the overfueling that was happening above 6000rpm,i didnt have too much time to play with it so i set it to 6000rpm and it stayed that way :/
This is dyno graph @ 1bar with stupid manual boost control,spring is 0.8bar
First run measure 280hp and then one spark plug die,after putting new spark plugs power was 60hp more :o
Final power output:
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/4084e12b.jpg)
This is torque graph:
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/d62f6e76.jpg)
Special thanks goes to MWfire for tuning the car,update to 1.1.88,fixing all of the cranking,warmap,acc enriech. and other values :) Car now starts right away and works much better :)
Another thanks goes to Mattias who helped me with the ignition map (somewhere around 3years ago,or something like that) it was hit in bulls-eye ;)
Since the power is still growing after 6000rpm (engines has Schrick camshaft) i will move rpm limiter to 7000rpms
-
What "overfueling" are you talking about above 6000 rpm?
It makes decent power at low boost! :)
-
hahaha you "drag race" guys are really crazy,MWfire also said that 1bar is low boost lol :)
By said overfueling i mean at VE map that looked waaaaaay diffrent with 1.0.73 firmware...now its all ok :)
-
Here is a little update :)
After one year car started drifting again and in last race (two weeks ago) a found two pistons broken (cyl 2 & cyl 3).
After car was tuned i turned cam 4deg backwards and didnt do any loggin or tuning (yep,stupid me) so i supposed that would be a reason for geting knock and ending up with two broken pistons,i replaced the pistons (no damage to the engine block) and returned the cam to the original position where it was maped,at the same time i replaced the old H1C with KKK K27.2 and do some logging....here is what i found:
VE table with H1C
(http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MilanaPerisic/h1c-ve-table.png)
Here is remaped VE table with KKK27.2,she runs little rich...this was remap before drifting,to keep it safe...
(http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MilanaPerisic/kkk27-ve-table.png)
Is this an example of compressor of H1C going out of the VE limits for my engine? Since its has noticeable drop in VE value over 5000rpm...
Here are the pistons....R.I.P :)
Cyl 2
(http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MilanaPerisic/621005_10151074137283710_126822923_o.jpg)
Cyl 3
(http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MilanaPerisic/201209_10151074140463710_768875716_o.jpg)
-
Since the K27.7 most likely has a bigger turbine or at least a more effective turbine this is how that shows up, no drop in VE up the rev range.
Any more details on the turbos?
-
i think i wrote you the details on youre topic about k27.2 @ e30tech.com....
-
VE table alone, or even entry tuning do not give guaranty of engine survival.
So many factors can lead to knocking...
My way is to tune VE table as precise as possible, to get idea how close or far is knock limit advance-wise, and leave EGO correction ON also at full load. Last one seems incorrect to many tuners. But my experience shows - it saves engines. Many engines! And what is important - WBO2 oxygen sensor failure in VEMS case do not lead to engine damage, just power hurts a bit because of PW fluctuations.
Also VEMS offer plenty of safety features. Use it!
What we miss currently is possibility to protect engine in overheated situation - remove boost, advance, add fuel (partly can be done by WUE). And working knock ctrl in official branch, off course.
Gints
-
The car feels like twice stronger then with h1c....i just cant believe how huge the difference is.
I will hit the dyno next week to check the power results...