VEMS Community Forum
Members => Projects & Installs => Topic started by: danmartin on September 16, 2007, 08:04:44 am
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I'm a bit late to the scene, but I'm finally starting my project thread. Ben's the one with the camera, and time to put into it, so expect most of the info to come from him.
On with the show.
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Here's a little background. I had an Acura RSX, and had some work done to it. It was quick, but I got sick of the FWD (especially with no LSD) and how plane it was. I wanted RWD, and character. I found a *mint* e30 BMW on eBay a while back, and grabbed it for $5,500 which is a steal. I've since lowered it with Ireland Engineering stage 3 race springs and Bilstien sport dampers. I've got some OZ racing wheels on there (I'm a big fan of the high spoke count wheels) to clear bigger brakes that will be going on soon. After a lot of thinking, I've decided on some sway bars, so they will go on soon.
The car is ready for some power. The idea is to get VEMS working, and then install a turbo. I'm looking for 350 HP or so at the beginning. I'll be buying things in preparation of 600 HP though. I will be building a block on the side, which will be dropped in, and then the boost upped from 1 bar to 2, without having to upgrade anything else.
I have VEMS right now, and a lot of wiring has been done (I'm removing the factory harness and making my own. After taking off the stock manifold, I decided it was never going back on again. Too much of a hassle. So I ordered up some parts from 666 fabrication.
(http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-54168318875339_1968_4472205)
While I was at it, I got a turbo manifold very similar to the one you see below, by the same guy.
(http://www.666fab.com/splitpulse2.jpg)
It is split pulse, T4 flange, but mine has dual 44mm wastegate pipes.
Next came an order to www.full-race.com for a Turbonetics F1-35 turbo:
http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=214_698&products_id=1844&osCsid=622826b180b382c545e6f1b874c7ff78
This is the best picture I could find of the turbo. It shows the difference between a true T4 flange, and a T3 adapted to T4.
(http://www.full-race.com/prototype2/subaru/TurboneticsT435RvsGarrettT435R-4.jpg)
Tial 50mm blow-off (bypass) valve:
(http://www.full-race.com/catalog/images/tial%2050mm%20bov.jpg)
Two Tial 44mm wastgates:
(http://www.full-race.com/catalog/images/tial%2044mm%20wastegate.jpg)
I've still got a bunch of things to grab, but I'm on my way.
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We're still waiting for the intake manifold to arrive before we can really get into this VEMS install. It should be coming soon, so get ready for more VEMS action from our side of the pond.
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Looks good! I have some Full Race goodies to go on my SR20 engine when it gets back from the engine builder.
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Good luck with the project ;)
Doing same here...but first foinf NA and VEMS then turbo.
http://www.vems.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=225.0 (http://www.vems.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=225.0)... :) :)
I finished harness going to try starting my car tonight (need to wire injectors and set all up).
What turbo are you going to use?
More info on hardware,project plans?
/Gogi
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Dan'll be N/A for a bit with VEMS before going turbo. So very similar to you.
Good luck on your car. We've been making very good progress since Dan's intake manifold came in the other day. I've got pictures I'll be posting soon.
The turbo Dan is going to use is listed in his second post. If you missed it, here's the link:
http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=214_698&products_id=1844&osCsid=622826b180b382c545e6f1b874c7ff78
I'll be posting more pictures and information about the project if you're interested.
Rob, what have you got for your SR20 from full race? I would kill for one of their exhaust manifolds. =]
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Rob, what have you got for your SR20 from full race? I would kill for one of their exhaust manifolds. =]
Pro-street top mount:
http://www.vems.co.uk/200SXWiki/index.php?pagename=Main.FullRaceProStreetManifold
For my GT30R
http://www.vems.co.uk/200SXWiki/index.php?pagename=Main.GT30RTurbo
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If my transmission weren't so weak, I'd be all over that stuff. I'll be stuck with 275 HP or so unless I do something drastic.
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Yeah I got my manifolds in Wednesday. The intake is flanged for a Mustang 5.0. However I seem to have picked up a throttle body off the only years of the 5.0 that don't bolt up ;D. Ben and I went to the junk yard and picked up the IAC and TPS off a proper year and I ordered a new aftermarket 75mm TB from summit racing and some universal throttle cable.
Hopefully that will be here early next week as well as all the rest of my turbo stuff. I have pretty much finished up the wiring and am just needing to drill a few extra holes in the firewall for wires and I will then start configuring my sensors and get the timing dialed in. Hopefully it will go uneventfully unlike Ben's install.
The plan is to run like 5-7 Pounds until my clutch is totally fried :). Then the plan is to order a 6-puck and a Sachs 618 Pressure Plate. Many BMW guys get metric blue head bolts to replace the factory stretch head bolts. However I will be ordering some ARP head studs and once those are in crank up the boost to a bar or so and watch the tires burn. :P
Pics will be up tonight!
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Well thanks to Ben and some hard work we got a lot of things done! Here are some pics of the parts I got in:
Intake Manifold:
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674523.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674524.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674525.jpg)
Exhaust Manifold:
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674526.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674527.jpg)
Install!
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674528.jpg)
Wiring Fun!
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674529.jpg)
Giant Fish with tiny fish.
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674530.jpg)
Throttle Body (75 MM Mustang)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674531.jpg)
Intake in
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674532.jpg)
Fuel Rail in and makeshift Intake
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674533.jpg)
Headlight modification
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674534.jpg)
to allow fitment of 3 inch charge pipes off a 24x12x3 inch core intercooler
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/674535.jpg)
We installed a universal throttle cable and we are going to make a bracket for mounting the throttle cable today as well as finish up the plumbing for vacuum tubes. We are also going to clean up the wiring and hopefully get this thing running soon. Stay tuned.
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We just finished another full day of work. I just wanted to point out what a stellar job we did plumbing the intercooler.
Most E30 guys plumb this specific intercooler (it's very popular) one of two ways. They either put the outlets towards the bottom of the car and run 2.5" pipes back under/around the lower radiator support and then into the engine bay. This takes up the room for the fog lights, so they are deleted.
Others put the outlets towards the top of the car, run 2.5" pipes back directly into the engine bay through the inner headlight assembly spot. This obviously loses the inner headlights.
Dan and I managed to plumb 3" pipes (!) under the headlights, into the engine bay. This means we got to keep both sets of headlights, the fog lights, and we've kept the A/C. This is a first we believe, as no one at www.e30tech.com seemed to think it was possible.
It's 3:30 am. right now, so I'm gunna catch some "Z"s before we do it all again tomorrow. Bare with me while I get my act together with the pictures. I've taken a lot, I just have other pictures that are taking priority right now. Once I post those (not here) I'll get to the car pics.
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Well I'm excited to say we got the car started and running tonight. We also finished up the intercooler plumbing. Most of the night was focused on fabricating a bracket for the throttle cable.
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/675609.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/675608.jpg)
Ben's mad fabrication skills with only a side grinder and a hammer.
Hood clearance was an issue with the manifold and TB so the throttle cable needed to be fished from underneath. I ordered up a new oil cooler and plumbing for it tonight so that should get here mid week and we will be able to re-assemble the front end and get the cooling system back together.
We got the timing dialed in and I have some base maps that I can work off of for tuning, but until everything gets put back together we are taking a well deserved break so stay tuned.
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I thought I'd give an update even though picture's aren't uploaded yet. We buttoned up the front end, and put the hood back on Dan's car last night and took it out for a spin. Even though we're pretty sure the idle control is disabled, it idles and runs surprisingly well. After a short VE tuning session we decided it was to the point where he could drive it daily, and he could stop driving his other car around. It should just be tweaks from here. We're not finished yet, but the car is looking to be in terrific shape.
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We fiddled around with the VE Learn today. It seems to do a pretty good job, however I wasn't able to find much documentation on it, has anyone had experience using it? Ben and I are pretty new to tuning and we think we have been doing in right. Perhaps I will post my tables and get some feedback from you guys soon.
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After some VE learning, we went back to the old fashioned way and did 20 or so WOT 3rd gear runs trying to get those parts of the VE table in good order. We believe we've got the 100 kPa VE settings throughout the entire rev range in great shape. We've also got cruising stuff down (30-60 kPa from 1,500-3,00 rpms) to something close to optimum.
I'll describe what we've been doing, and maybe Rob or someone else can tell us if we're going about it correctly. We have what we think is a great spark table already, stole from someone else who's done a hybrid of stock and dyno tuned values. Then I went ahead and just sort of made a best guess as what the lamda table should be. I'll post that soon. After those two were set, we've modified the VE table values up or down using the EGO Correction as our guide. We have EGO Correction set to Lean % of 7 and Rich % of 1.
First we logged runs, and took care of any lean situations as best we could.
Then we attacked the rich situations, so when EGO goes to less than 96% we've been lowering the VE table numbers.
Right now under WOT and cruising the actual lamda holds very true to the target, and the EGO correction is around 98-100%, so not doing much.
Is this the right way to go about things? And, once we're done, is the goal to turn EGO correction off, or should we plan to have it on for normal driving?
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Sounds like you are going about things in the right way, normally its best to start rich and lean out, but as long as you're not miles out then you are not going to burn much - things can go bad quickly with a turbo...
Its a plan to keep EGO running, obviously you can't rely on it at high RPM and boost so set the off values with something sensible (75% throttle and 5K rpm) but for closed loop operation it will add reliablility and help reduce fuel consumption at part throttle and crusing speeds.
Rob
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Can i see your config or msq file? :)
I should try to start the car in few days,so want to be 100% shure that i dont burn anything ;)
Expecting some dyno results from you guys.
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Can i see your config or msq file? :)
I should try to start the car in few days,so want to be 100% shure that i dont burn anything ;)
Expecting some dyno results from you guys.
Yah, we'll get you what you want. I figure we'll just post screen shots of our settings and you can work from there. If you want actual config files, we can arrange that as well. Look for screen caps very soon. I'm off to class though, so I'll post more later.
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Yeah,screen shots are fine,i`m not pro yet so i dont like reading config file but i`m getting used to it...
Tnx mate,did u started the car with or without turbo?
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The car is not boosted right now, waiting on the turbocharger to come, if it ever will. Its really not bad, just start rich and lean out where you need to. If you have larger injectors there is a stickied thread on e30tech that has some priming and cranking info that could be of use. For us we just started it right up.
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Here's the lambda table I just sort of made up on a whim:
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/680369.jpg)
I was hoping Rob or others could comment on anything they thought might need work. The car is N/A right now, and the grey area is obviously un-tuned.
More screen caps will come. BMW 325i, you should keep an eye out for the primary trigger screen cap and others, as you'll be able to just copy us.
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That lambda table looks okay but it might not be a good idea to keep 1.00 up at the boost level I guess you're planning on that as you get on with the turbocharging.
The way VEMS calculates fuel is (in simple form)
pw = req_fuel * MAP * VE(RPM, MAP) / lambda(RPM,MAP) * gammae * ego_corr
So lambda scales the fuel according to your target lambda (and also uses its target value as a correction factor)
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Ok guys,tnx alot!
I have 55lb lowZ injectors but i will use them only on boosted engine,i have 320i 24v injectors installed they flow match our 325i stock injectors (blue ones),is it smart to put TS diode from the begining to the flyback wire so i dont need to put it later when lowZ injectors come,this can hurt right?
As far as VR,i soldered one extra the wire to shielded wire from near the sensor (benning of the shield wire) and i put it to engine ground besides oil pan,,there are some stock grounds,and i will wire other end of shielded wire to VEMS grounds,near the unit,shielded wire and yellow wire can be grounded to same point right? i will take photos of my wires setup tomorrow and post in my topic so you can view it and comment it.
I have 400Kpa bare 5v onboard map sensor (as Mattias(iXer) suggested),so in Basic Settings>Map Sensor range i need to put 400 right? and in MapRangeUnit > 4 (>510Kpa sensor).
I did some cimping today,need to set IAT and connect sensor grounds to ground point near Genboard and i can spark and strobe the engine to get trigger wheel setings correct.
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Use the TS diode.
Go for 400 kpa and 2 (High boost).
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These are my primary trigger settings. For the factory VR shielded wire I did no modifications. I only put the yellow (ground wire) to sensor ground and the black wire (signal) to VEMS. I didn't ground the shield (I assumed it was already ??? and haven't had problems).
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/680975.jpg)
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On another note we have had an issue we have been trying to sort out, but have had little luck with. If I'm cruising along at say 3k rpm and let off throttle the car behaves as it should until around 2k rpm when the car starts to buck. For some reason it is adding fuel instead of letting the injectors be turned off.
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/680980.jpg)
Also we were looking at some logs of some hard shifts and wanted to know if they looked normal or if the lean out after the shift is another problem.
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/680981.jpg)
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Looks like your overrun_fuelcut values need addressing, what values are you using?
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These are my primary trigger settings. For the factory VR shielded wire I did no modifications. I only put the yellow (ground wire) to sensor ground and the black wire (signal) to VEMS. I didn't ground the shield (I assumed it was already ??? and haven't had problems).
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/680975.jpg)
Are you shure that Edge is Rising? I always seen Falling on M20's?
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MembersPage%2FMattiasSandgren%2FPeppesBmw
Maybe i`m wrong but....
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"When using a VR sensor the ECU must be configured to trigger on the rising edge of a tooth."
I read this http://www.vems.hu/manual/html/ch09.html#Detailed.Sensor.RPM.Config
My signal is great so I guess I must be doing something right.
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Dan, looks like your overrun_fuelcut values need addressing. You should get on that.
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"When using a VR sensor the ECU must be configured to trigger on the rising edge of a tooth."
I read this http://www.vems.hu/manual/html/ch09.html#Detailed.Sensor.RPM.Config
My signal is great so I guess I must be doing something right.
Yes,i guess you are right,i missed out that one...
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I looked at my basic settings and the value for overrun_fuelcut was 2000 and overrun_fuelresume was 1900. My understanding of this is that the VEMS will cut fuel if RPM is greater that overrun_fuelcut and the TPS is lower than the threshold. The computer will resume giving the motor fuel at overrun_fuelresume. So what was happening is I was off throttle and there was no fuel above 2000 rpm however once 1900 hit it began adding fuel which would spike the rpm back up and then fuel would cut and this would continue. I have set fuel resume to a lower value 1100 RPM.
However the way it is working right now fuel is being cut when I shift and I feel like it is leaning the motor out for an instant once I get back on it. Should I fiddle with these values so that fuel stays on during shift or is it ok to have this situation?
Current settings:
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/681525.jpg)
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Try fuel cut over 3000 and resume of 2000, you can tune these figures to elimate popping in the exhaust and drivablility
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I finished everything today,now i need to set config and go try for spark and start the engine...
Are you guys using stock coil?
What is you Priming,Cranking,Afterstart settings?
Tnx
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Yes, we are using the stock coil and distributor.
We'll try to get you our settings within the next 4 or 5 hours.
Edit: I'm sorry we aren't able to get you those settings yet. I've got a short paper to write for school, so I'll post Dan's info after that sometime tonight. You should have it soon enough.
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These are Dan's settings for Priming, cranking & Afterstart.
You should be able to use these values as well. You might find they need tweaking for your own needs, but these work great on Dan's car. Maybe starting for the first time you might want to up the warm and cold cranking values a bit to give more fuel during cranking, but Dan's car starts up every time, no problem with these values.
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/682217.jpg)
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Tnx guys,you dont need to apologize ;) i have all the time in the world...i`ll try everything later and get back with results ;)
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My car is pretty much done except for little tweaks until I install my turbo. It should get to me Wednesday but who knows how long it will take for me to put it in. I still have to sort out oil delivery and return for it. Get the BOV flanges welded into my charge pipes, and make an exhaust. So hopefully this will come together sooner than later. Thanks again Rob for all your help!
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Here's Dan's Injector Settings and Injector Outputs. The last two values in the Injector Output table are specific to his installation, so you shouldn't need to copy those.
Injector Settings:
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/682708.jpg)
Injector Outputs:
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/682707.jpg)
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Well I ran against Ben's brothers car tonight and the results were a bit disappointing. His car is a stock Nissan Sentra SE-R. Ben has raced his car against his brothers car before and with me in Ben's car it is an even race. Also Ben and I have raced before I got VEMS and our cars are neck-and-neck. So we figured that I should be able to pull a bit on Ben's brothers car. Well not the case :( . He pulled on me pretty good so I don't know what to say, I guess I suck at tuning. I'm thinking somewhere along the process my Wideband settings got messed up. I'm going to re-configure it again and make sure I'm running 13:1. Here is my spark table.
Don't Mind the values over 110 kPa as they are not tuned!
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/682725.jpg)
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You might try with this one,its what Mattias recommends as starting point...
(http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p304/soopa325i/paljenje.jpg)
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Yeah that table is pretty good. I feel like my table is more aggressive and should provide more power (under 100 kPa) , but until I get the car on a dyno I can't tell for sure. I figure once I get the turbo and the clutch and am boosting to my hearts content I'll take it to the dyno and dial in the timing perfectly, until then I will use what I have as a base and tune conservatively under boost.
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Those two maps looks almost identical at 110 kPa and under. A few values are tweaked, but Dan's current map looks like it could have even started from Mattias's map. It gives something good to use for above 110 kPa though.
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Well Ben was fixing his idle control solenoid wiring today and it inspired me to mess with my idle settings in VEMS. I hadn't really messed with them before because during cold start to keep the car idleing after crank all I needed to do way apply throttle for like 15 seconds and the car would idle around 500-600 rpm while cold. And it idles around 1100 rpm warm. But I figured since it is getting colder here it would be a good time to get idle set up because I don't know if keeping the revs up with my foot will last much longer.
The first thing I did was enable the idle solenoid with the engine off. It was set by default to some high frequency and I could here it click. I eventually lowered the frequency to 3. Started the car up, and the revs were way to high (1500) while my idle settings are set to 800 for warm and 1100 for cold. (The car is warm after the drive to Ben's home). So I enable PID and it doesn't help. I proceeded to alter the PWM table and make the warmer values 100(This makes no sense to me since 100 should correspond to idle open all the time, but it brought the values down for some reason). This I assume keeps the idle solenoid closed. Sure enough the car settles down to around 1100 rpm (usual warm idle without solenoid). So I figure I'll take it out for a drive. Immediately I notice that the response at low throttle input is way too high. I'm assuming the idle control is supplying more air than it should be. So I changed the idle tps threshold to 1% this didn't help. I then changed it to 10%. The low throttle characteristics are great but once I cross over 10% TPS the car bucks.
So I'm assuming I should leave the threshold at 3% and try to tune the PID settings. The laptop is charging so tuning is on hold. I know from basic controls class that a lager P gives faster response, a larger I decreases steady state error, and a larger D helps with overshoot and slows don the transient response. So for at least warm engine driveability I should look into increasing D to help keep the revs down in response to low throttle input, but we will see.
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So idle was set to channel "i6" and we changed that to "6". This made the engine rev to 3000 rpm so I changed the PWM values back to a lower number and this seemed to help. Still however the rpm targets in idle settings don't correspond to my idle. Some more tinkering ahead...
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That idle setup realy is pain in the ass with that stupid solenoid.... ::)
Have you expirienced any Trigger Errors?
How did you wire VR? Black wire to VEMS EC36 Pin27 and yellow wire to Sensor Grounds?
I`ll try to replace the VR to see if it helps...i hate this kind of stuff
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Yes, Dan wired his VR sensor that way. Black wire was signal, and yellow wire was ground.
He hasn't seen any trigger errors, but I have. In a log I did, I noticed it had a warning about trigger errors. I don't know how often it's happening, but it doesn't seem to be causing me any problems.
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Yeah I didn't ground the shielding myself, I assumed the factory did, but i did ground the yellow wire to sensor ground. I suppose luck is on my side for now...
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Dan and I went out the other night to do some more benchmarking.
We had three cars that were the same exact speed before we started our VEMS projects. The cars are:
Car Modifications Owner
1987 BMW 325is Stock Dan Martin
93 octane
170 lbs. ballast (passenger)
1994 Nissan Sentra SE-R Short ram intake Ben Fenner
Base ignition timing advanced 4 degrees
93 octane
170 lbs. ballast (passenger)
1994 Nissan Sentra SE-R Stock Dan Fenner
87 octane
Now we can use my brother's SE-R to benchmark our cars, and see how our WOT tuning is going.
We did a run last week with Dan's car against my brother's that did not go very well. Dan's car was marginally slower than it should have been, and seemed to lose ground at the lower revs, and never made it up towards the top.
We re-evaluated his air/fuel ratio, compared it to stock, and decided he was much, much too rich. After leaning him out, we did another run last night. He managed to pull a little bit on my brother's car until 100 mph or so when his poor aerodynamics must have taken over, and he dropped back behind. Dan's pretty satisfied with the results. We'll see if he wants to do anything else. My guess is once I race him with my car and pull on him, he'll rethink his decision to leave things alone. =]
I have a video of both of those runs that I may post, but it's very dark (of course) so we'll see if I get around to it.
Check my thread (http://www.vems.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=215.120) for my results.
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Dan is satisfied with his current settings. His car is running very well. It is reliable, the gas millage is decent, and the power is comparable to stock.
He has taken the car off the road in preparation for turbo installation and does not plan on dyno-ing the car before turbo installation as it seems to be just as fast as stock, no faster.
Stay tuned for turbo madness.
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Hey guys,hows its going?
Whats up with the idle stepper? I didnt set mine yet....also my cold start sucks a lot...need to hold throtle for a few minutes then its ok....i`m very very rich at idle... lamda 0.87-0.90 but thats the only way i can keep it idle about 800rpm...
Any sugestions?
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You should configure you idle solenoids. I am running a mustang 5.0 throttle body and idle solenoid so mine is completly different. I have been lucky with my idle, it just seems to work.
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Just to give an update, I've been on a parts buying frenzy. I have a Sach 618 Pressure Plate and Clutchnet 6 puck unsprung clutch on the way. Also the exhaust has been sourced and I'm going 4 inches from the turbo back. I will be using two Dynamax resonators and a Magnaflow mullfer. The exhaust it going to be interesting to say the least (hopefully I will retain SOME ground clearance). Im starting to plumb the oil and water for the turbo. The oil pan needs to be dropped for tapping, but this requires dropping the front subframe and steering rack. Also new motor and tranny mounts will go on. And finally some 63 lb/hr injectors. The original plan was to go slow, but i am tired of being slow.
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These are Dan's settings:
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/682217.jpg)
He's changed the Crank Cold PW value from 3.0 to 6.0 I believe as he started to have some issues with cold start finally now that it's a bit cold. You should look into your cold idle settings during cranking as well. You might want to raise it. Also take note that cranking threshold is very important. A value too high (like 500 rpm) won't allow the engine to get into "afterstart" as I've just found out recently.
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Got some pics...
Resonator
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/697129.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/697131.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/697133.jpg)
My friend Jacob thats has agreed to weld up the exhaust for me...
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/697134.jpg)
Some of the exhaust pieces, they are flipping huge...
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/697132.jpg)
I'm now ready to drop the oil pan and tap it for oil return, but I don't really know when I will get around to it, maybe after finals in early December. I really want to get this done by 2008.
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Some more pics...
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1630/697420.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1630/697421.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1630/697422.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1630/697423.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1630/697424.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1630/697425.jpg)
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This is my last lamda table before I took the car off the road and before I moved to 14x16. Also if I remember quickly I tuned to a little bit leaner than this.
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1545/700213.jpg)
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Called Clutchnet today asking about my clutch, they say it ships tommo so... Originally last weekend I had planed to do the oil pan but something came up and I had to drive to Chicago. I am now down an RSX, but up this:
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1642/703222.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1642/703224.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1642/703221.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1642/703223.jpg)
So I don't know if its the same in the UK but stateside the S13's only came in the 180sx style front end. This car apparently is 'hot shit' because of the JDM front :shrug: Also we get the KA24DE only. Well thankfully this one is swapped...
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1642/703196.jpg)
Greddy Intake
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1642/703202.jpg)
GT3076R
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1642/703203.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1642/703204.jpg)
Some Issues
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/132464/1642/703195.jpg)
I guess when they tucked the wires and slammed the cars they didn't realize that stuff would rub.
Anyway the car is a good start for another project. The exhaust is a bit loud for my taste and the 3" piping is crush bent so that needs to go. Needs a headliner, and little stuff. Also something to note the car runs AEM EMS. They put in a boost controller and they told me that it was tuned with progressive boost to go from 10-14 PSI. Well after looking at the settings, I felt the solenoid wasn't doing anything so I unhooked it and ran the car. Guess what boost creep from 10-14 PSI. I chuckled. The car is tuned poorly and floods like a mad man at low rmp and high throttle. Also the car has super rich cruising AFR's. Anyway EMS doesn't seem hard at all. I really want to get the BMW up compare the two.
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Any reason you didn't post the money shots?
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Oh man it's been too long. We got the new clutch in and the oil pan, got the manifold wrapped and mounted, and finished welding up the downpipe. We ran oil and water lines for the turbo, but am waiting on some fittings to get the oil supply finished. They came in today but I've yet to install them. We need to make one more wastgate dump pipe and the car is ready to be started! I'm excited, its been a long time comming. Hopefully updates and pics soon.
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Some pics:
Oil Pan Drain
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1692/727045.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1692/727046.jpg)
New Clutch install (Sach 618 Pressure Plate and 6-Puck Unsprung Clutchnet clutch)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1693/727047.jpg)
Disconnecting Shifter
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1693/727048.jpg)
Transmission wasn't bad at all to get out... (Getting it back in was the problem :) )
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1693/727049.jpg)
New Throw-Out Bearing
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1693/727050.jpg)
Stock PP and Clutch
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1693/727051.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1693/727052.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1693/727053.jpg)
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Started making exhaust, Ben did the fitting and cutting I did the welding. We started off using a hacksaw, that was a pain in the ass, we then stepped up to a side grinder, that didn't make straight cuts, so finally we went out and bought a 14" Chop Saw.
Starting Downpipe
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/727054.jpg)
Clearance
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/727055.jpg)
Making Wastgate Dump tubes
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/727056.jpg)
My first time welding, could be worse...
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/727057.jpg)
Action Shot!
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/727059.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/727060.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/727061.jpg)
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Finishing up the downpipe...
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/727066.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/727067.jpg)
Installed!!!
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1628/727068.jpg)
Before I went I took the car down for turbo, I went to 14x16 and hadn't started the car up again since the change. I was almost certain that the car wouldn't start, but it started right up! So whats left is to finish up the wategate dump tubes, tidy up the engine bay a bit (more heat wrap), and finish the exhaust. Some Siemens 63 lb/hr injectors are coming in Friday so I hope to get it ready by then (at least the dump tubes). We will install them and make some brackets to secure the fuel rail and re-tune the car a bit. Super exciting to see a project like this actually hit the road!
My old man seems to think that what will happen is that either im gonna drive it out of the drive way and its going to blow up, or the first time I let her loose I'm gonna fly. Hopefully the only problems I encounter is the absence of traction ;D
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Nice work!
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Ben and I put the two resonators on and took it for a spin tonight, I'm still on stock injectors, although I have my 60 lbers Ben's brother took our tuning laptop for the weekend so thats that. It leaked oil out of our homemade oil fitting for the stock pressure sender, thats just a matter of copper crush washers and more tightening. The coolant coupler for the turbo leaks so maybe some stat o seals or Teflon tape and tightening. I did see some positive pressure and heard the BOV and it sounded great, much better than the Greddy Type-S on my s13. Thats all for now; we need to get the muffler on and finish up the wastgate dump tubes and install injectors and tune. Stay tuned.
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Saw 10psi of pig rich action today, it was less than glorious. Managed to lean it out to like .74 lamba before the fuel rail popped off, spraying fuel everywhere. Time to fabricate fuel rail brackets ;D
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Ben made some brackets last night, I'm pretty sure the fuel rail isn't going anywhere (hopefully). Got the welding tank filled today and the exhuast will be done tonight. Pics soon...
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hey! :) i`m glad you are seeing boost,i should see it to really soon ;) i also ordered 618 plate so i`m waiting it to arrive so i can put the engine in ;)
Good work!
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So we pieced together a homemade manual boost controller to up the boost, .8 bar was just too slow. We decided to go to 1 bar. We tuned to .82 lambda. Well the car still felt slow :-\ So we decided it was time to race against my Nissan. We all figure with its power it is a high 11 second car, so a pretty good benchmark. We did a roll from 20 in second gear. To both Ben and my surprise the BMW just pulls and pulls on the Nissan. We did it again and the result was the same. So we decided to get the Nissan spooled a bit more and rolled from 40. BMW still pulls, especially pas 100 MPH where it just stays in the power band. BMW is planted at speed and quiet. We did a pull the other day for tuning in 5th gear up to 140 without realizing it, felt like 80.
So its really messing with us because its so well behaved and just feels slow. I guess its a good tune and very smooth power delivery because even with 205 series tires traction in second isn't an issue. The Nissan was dyno'ed at like 340whp so we estimate maybe 360hp? from the BMW.
Waiting on ARP Head studs. Going to 1.4 bar.
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hey Ben, will you count me in?
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Waiting on ARP Head studs. Going to 1.4 bar.
:o
cant wait to see dyno graph!
:)
GW
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hey Ben, will you count me in?
Sure thing Dan: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFT4UBlmXJA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFT4UBlmXJA)
We tried to up the boost to 1.4 bar last night and hit the limit of the stock ignition system at 205 kPa so we've got 3 MSD coils on the way.
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lulz Ben. Seriously though, any of you guys run CDI, have any suggestions for boxes?
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MSD DIS-4 (not the HO model unless you want to experiment) and run two of the four channels.
Rob
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Thanks Rob, but do you mean 3 channels? Also alot of the e30tech guys are saying that wasted spark will get me to over 1000 hp, but I was under the impression that CDI is needed anything past 600hp or so, whats your opinion/experience?
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Yep, you're right - 3 channels.
Wasted spark with a good coil should get you a long way, with Toyota 1JZ engines I understand that CDI is needed from anything over 1.2bar, there dont seem to be any hard and fast rules.
The trick will be incremental testing, try the wasted spark coils first, if you run into issues upgrade to CDI.
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Thanks Rob, yeah I was under the same impressions about when the need for CDI might arise, I will see how far the wasted spark will take me then upgrade when necessary.
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Well after so long of being lazy we finally got wasted spark installed after some hang ups
http://www.vems.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=436.0
Anyway upped the boost to around 210-220 kpa and tuned, gonna up to 240 soon and see what its like...
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At least post a picture Dan...
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1783/746139.jpg)
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Saw the thread on E30tech, makes it look so easy :)
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I'll give Dan some time to post his first dyno results. If he hasn't in a bit, I'll post it for him. =P
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I guess it's up to me.
First run we stopped early because he didn't want to hit the rev limiter, so we stopped around 6600 RPM. Put down 446WHP and 350 torque lulz. Car does not choke, the torque curve is almost flattening out at the end. Next run we put down 463/363 around 6600-6700. It felt like a limiter or something, either the dyno wasn't set right or I had some spark blow out. Anyway due to the weird happenings the dyno graph is all screwy but you can tell what is real and what isnt. Final pull was 475/365 with the same story.
So yeah 475 WHP, I know with an MSD DIS-4 and a 7200 I can break 500 without a sweat. With more revs this thing will really put down HP. Not bad for a stock block with head studs eh?
This was done on a Mustang Dyno, so on a dynojet expect 40-50 hp more :)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1842/769619.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1842/769620.jpg)
(http://www.supercars.net/gallery/147015/1842/769621.jpg)
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Hi, nice work!
But what do you mean when you say stock block, it's compression ratio stock or did you change it?
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by stock block I mean its stock. The only thing done to the engine is the ARP head studs.
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Can you post your intake temps for comparision reasons to similar M20´s.
if you have it at your various levels of boost increase.
I.e full run at 10psi, then 15psi and so on.
Thanks