My Nissan Cherry Turbo is in need to finally get a VEM's in the lil beast.
I'm fine with everything but the trigger, any help on the trigger will be greated with open arm's!!
Pic included
http://pics-by-toby.fotopic.net (http://pics-by-toby.fotopic.net)
The link comes up with something about you not having moved in yet...
Sorry.... try this one dude http://pics-by-toby.fotopic.net/c1269146.html
Well I think the first thing is to consider the crank trigger as that will be a simple tried and tested method:
http://www.trigger-wheels.com/wheels.php
Alternatively we go the Nissan CAS route:
(http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSTrigger/newdisk.jpg)
Best of all would be both! Get the car running on a crank trigger, then use the cam to sync things, sequential coil on plug and injection would be yours to play with!
Whats the ECU connector look like? We might be able to ease the installation with something a little like this:
(http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSLoom/S13HarnessAdaptor.jpg)
Will take pic tomorrow of the ECU conector's, mine has 2. but have all diagram's ect.
Another thing. how do you get the pic's up on the forum like you have with the timing disc and loom? just don't know?
have a looksi here
http://www.vems.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=112.0 (http://www.vems.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=112.0)
any probs setting it up or with the instructions let me know and Ill try and assist or ament the instructions
regards
Agriv8
Okay lets work with what we've got so far, as we're not discounting the standard distributor trigger (but dont have any pictures of it yet)
What are the three belts for?
(http://images3.fotopic.net/?iid=yn9bmh&outx=800&quality=70)
Are you using all of them or could one of them (the front one) be machined to accept a trigger wheel.
(http://images5.fotopic.net/?iid=yn9bme&outx=800&quality=70)
Looks like plenty of meat there to machine a ring into. The next question would be where you would mount the sensor?
Dont use the front one mate so could do that no worries! sensor wise i'd have to make something up..... they'll be a 10/8mm hole for a bolt to hold the cover on so could use that and make up a u bracket with the sensor mounted on the end? will go picture mad tomorrow as i got stuck in the workshop till 7... you know how dam work is lol
Cheers for all the help....
Just to see if i got it sussed ready for tomorrow's lot...........
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z68/insanetuning/STA60087.jpg)
Typical now i can't get into photo bucket!! lol
It's a disc with one hole for TDC and 3 other score's each at 90 degrees, has by the look's of it a hall sensor with 4 wire's coming out of the back, one 12 feed one earth and the other 2 go to the EFI control unit.
Will try and sort out the pic's over the weekend.
Sorry, long day.... one hole for 360 degree of the cam or 180 of the crank, then also on the disc as well as the hole for 360 there is 3 score's one at 3,6 and 9 o'clock or 90 degrees.
Sorry about that.
In its simplest form you'd be able to use these slots in "simple trigger" configuration and keep the distributor.
It all depends if you want simple, or rock steady accuracy.
The problem with cam mounted triggers is that theres a fair degree of "slop" involved: Theres cam belt or chain movement during acceleration and deceleration, as well as drive gear backlash. Admittedly it doesnt add up to more that a few degrees, and all the slop is taken up when the engine is accelerating, but it can make idling less than smooth as the engine will speed up and slow down which will cause the ignition to advance and retard which will slow and speed the engine..
In short it will only ever be as good as the stock system!
Rob
Well going to be running a rough cam so i'd rather use a crank trigger, know anyone i could get the pully to so they could have a look at possibly machining a trigger??
Not much point of putting a pic of the cam trigger up is there?
The more data the better :)
Plus you'll be in the best situation if you can use the cam sensor as a syncronising trigger.
I've little doubt that you can machine a trigger pattern into/onto that pulley - the key part is the positioning of the sensor.
You can send it to me if you like.
Rob
Ok dude, what's your adress?? will clean it up first lol, where do ya live bud? could try come say hi and bring the old girl up ;) would rather use both like ya say more data is better then then less.... the sensor...... well once the pulley is done let me know how far away its got to be and i'll have a look, if i could get the car somewhere you could have a look it would make it easyer for you to say where ya want it or where we need it??
Still got this pissin GTI-R too so know anyone that's lookin for one?? lol
Can you give me a ring? I'll need to talk you through a few bits and then I'll see who I can get to do the machining... I'm guessing that you dont have any contacts with a lathe?
Rob
Oh yes, one of my best mates has one and i think is very good on it, he's a fabricator and welder and there workshop is massive, if we can get something drawn up with measurement's i'll show him and see what he say's.
Whats yee number dude?? also i wouldn't mind havin an EGT for each cylinder and then the one after just so i know what's happening in each cylinder, will i need to get some seperate gauge's or can the Vems come with a small display??
Numbers on the main webpage: 07747 058695
Might be good if you could call me tomorrow, I'm trying to salvage the last part of the bank holiday and have my eyes on a bottle of Red...
Rob
No worries dude, will call tomorrow, what's the best time?? about 6:30-7pm??
Right, that smaller frt part of the pully is only 112mm sooo is smaller then the 5.125'' and the inside part of the pully is close to 150mm so not too sure what trigger size to buy??
While you're gettin your head around the triggering idea I thought this might give you some ideas:
(http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSTrigger/60-2CrankTrigger.jpg)
Very tidy,
brake line romved for photo ??
REgards
Agriv8
Yeh that looks mint, i know where i'm going to mount my snsr now, there's a 10mm bolt hole thats empty and unused and thats in line with the water pump bolt so will do a plate across in ally with a y peice welded out then snsr at the end.
With the pully, ordered the one you said about but the only way to fit it is going to be shave 3/4mm off then slide the trigger wheel on to the pully and weld it on, no where near enough meat to bolt.
My mate say's if it dose distort at all he'll just take it back till its flat, if the thickness of the trigger wheel changes will this alter the induced voltage required??
On an exciting note i got the trigger snsr, 2nd gen coil pk, and connectors through today ;D :o
Will start a thread up on the project page with some more pic's ;) CAN WAIT!!!