This is going to be a bit of a grey area :-\
Will i need to remove the transient supression diode when running the low z injectors on the external peak and hold driver board? I know its bad when PWMing but is that down to the constraints of PWM rather than the low z? Dont forget that the only difference between the Peak and Hold driver and the series resister is the way it limits the current, both could be considered the same type of drive, IE 100%PWM dissabled.
Any help on this apreciated. I may have to go to the wiki on this but the response wont be in the time frame im after.
Thanks
How does the external board handle flyback? The VEMS will not be driving the inductive load of the injectors so its flyback will not be needed. You may need to address flyback issues with other inductive loads though.
I spoke to Jean about the flyback and which way to go, its the transient diode that we are both unsure of. The external board does have its own flyback diode per driver chanel. However we came to the conclusion that these could be removed and use the onboard flyback. The external board is wired almost as if the injector FETs were 'remote' from the board, its the driving signal from the Genboard processor that is wired to the peak and hold chip, this is taken from the original location of the injector FETs on the Genboard. The grounds are pretty much the same so the VEMS onboard flyback will still be in the circuit. The board requires its own 5v supply which is easy enough.
The only concern is if the FET driver signal is 12v, the peak and hold board requires 5v driver signal. I think the FET driver signal is 5v on the Genboard, can anyone confirm this.
I opted to use the FETs that Jean uses on the external board, and move over four of the FETs i have on the board to four of the unused ignition drivers.
Aparently Jen has had another Vems user asking about these, and I know there is another on this forum.
The transient diode is used as we've found its the best way of controlling flyback and getting good closing characteristics for the FETs on the VEMS board. The back EMF is dumped across these FETs when the injector closes, the flyback diodes on the board and transient diode handle this. If you are going to use a seperate FET driver then you need to use the flyback that he's using, the 5v FET driver on the VEMS board will not see the flyback voltage as its handled by the FET.
You can run a VEMS without the transient diode, in many cases it works quite well but needs the injectors to be tuned more.
Dont remove the flyback diodes on his board, set the thing up as a daughterboard that uses the FET driver feed, and grounds from the board and route the flyback from the P&H board to the EC36-pin23 using a flying wire.
Im A bit confused :-\
Ok let me put it another way
If i were to leave the FETs on the Genboard, but unsolder and disconnect from the Genboard, the processor driver signal, what you call it on the fet? Collector? leaving the FET ground and Emitter? as was, with the flyback still intact as intended. Connecting the 'collector of the FET to the PH chip output and then the Genboard processor output that was disconnected from the collector of the FET on the Genboard, connected to the PH chip input. It then is the PH chip and circuitry that is driving the FETwith its signal coming from the processor on the Genboard, the power and flyback side has not been alatered in any way.
This would be the situation if the fets are installed on the external board and hard wired to the Genboard , IE it is remote (longer legs on the FET)
The only other wiring this external board needs is a +ve -ve 5v for the circuitry
Megasquirt, but you get the jist
(http://www.jbperf.com/p&h_board/v30connect_boardA.JPG)
Now I get you :-\ I'm looking at the board and we have all the flyback diodes in place on the FET 'outputs' which is going to be the route for the back EMF, what are the flyback diodes like on the P&H board? Are they similar in characteristics to the ones on the VEMS board?
I'd not be using the transient suppression diode in the flyback.
http://catalog.digikey.com/scripts/partsearch.dll?Detail?name=FR303DICT-ND
http://www.diodes.com/products/inactive/_data/ds26003.pdf
These are the diodes Jean has spec'd
I have never really looked at the flyback on the Genboard, i'll have a look at the schematics in a bit, i just know its in that randomly placed looking bank of diodes on the top of the board ;D
I supose running without the transient diode isnt such a bad thing, i read up a bit, it was used to help with badly selected rampup times or something like that. It replaces what would have been the power flyback??
It looks to me that the PH board leads the flyback voltage to ground, where as the Genboard leads it to the +ve 'common' supply of the injectors??
I think we are getting there ;)
What I would do...
In the first instance I'd bridge the FET drivers directly to the P&H board, and use the board independently of the rest of the ECU. Maybe use a four pin automotive connector (water proof/resistant connector from the Web Shop) or mount the thing entirely outside of the case so that you can give it some external heat sinking.
Oh, and I'd buy some spare FET driver chips from the webshop ;)
Ok then, next question, what voltage is used to drive the FET open. 5v or 12v ???
Just scoped it and it looks like 12v.
From the schematic, it is 12V.
That means you'll have to bypass the FET driver to drive the p&h board.
Jean
Ah ok, ill have a lookie
I found this
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=GenBoard%2FPowerSwitcher%2FFET
Ok, Rob, these are the 'spare' FEt drivers?
http://shop.vems.hu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_7&products_id=59&osCsid=6775c4817555876203e8157ecce3d177
Looking at the schematic (looks like an always hard to read, simplified version) As you have pointed out already Jean, the signal for the Peak And Hold board needs to come from Pre_Inj, this is the 5v signal from the processor.
To the practicality of it. Would simply removing the driver chip, soldering a wire onto the appropriate pads of Pre_Inj for that chip, taking these wires to the 'inputs' on the P&H board, maybe then returning another wire from the P&H driver circuit output to the INJG pads of the removed chip, and solder the P&H FETs inplace of the VEMS Injector FETs. This just leaves the reistors R18, R21,R39 and so on, what to do with these? this would keep the FET heat sinks all in the same place along with the original flyback circuit, with only the add on board needing mounting. Seems daft taking the switched current off the board and then bringing it back again, when you could achieve the same on the 5v signal side of things.
One thing I am concerned with is there is no protection on the processor ? Boom and bust :D
Also assuming that small gauge wire is only required.
Schematic showing the driver chips Labled with 'U'
(http://freespace.virgin.net/colin.milne/Schematic.jpg)
And the board Layout again showing the driver chip Chips still labled 'U' (lol, nit exactly the best colours to use together :D)
(http://freespace.virgin.net/colin.milne/BoardLayout.jpg)
Fet driver chip data sheet
http://dkc3.digikey.com/Media/PDF/Data%20Sheets/ON%20Semiconductor%20PDFs/MC34151,33151.pdf
What about increasing resistor value of R18, R21 and so on, to pull the voltage down, and leave the driver chip well alone, but giving the processor some protection, the driver chip being a rather expensive fuse??
Im not conversant on electronics so dont know if that would work
Ooh, just experienced Dejavou,been here done that sort of thing :D
Colin,
Actually, the FET driver is the IXDN404SI if I can rely on the schematic. This driver is non-inverting and is a bit more robust that the MC34151.
You can't use the FETs on the VEMS board because the current needs to go through the sense resistor on the p&h board. If you wanted to do that anyways, you'd have to disconnect the FET's pin that goes to ground, connect it to the corresponding pad for the Darlington transistor on the p&h board, and then connect the injector ground on the p&h board to the VEMS ground pad. That could probably be done but that would make for a pretty screwy installation. Another point is that I'm not sure if the VEMS FET would behave correctly when being driven by the LM1949 on the p&h board. FETs like to be either on or off but they'd have to be partially on during the hold phase and they'd probably heat up quite a bit. That may not be a problem but I'd have to check the specs and/or do tests to have an idea.
As for using higher values for R18,..., in itself, that wouldn't be a good solution. What's needed is a voltage divider which can be done by 2 resistors. Fortunately, the p&h board has a pull down resistor (R10-13) which could be used for the voltage divider together with R18,... If you were to use 1K Ohm for R18... and 430Ohm for R10-13 you'd have a signal that would be within the spec of the LM1949 with a battery voltage from less than 8V to more than 16.5V which should cover pretty much all cases from cold start with weak battery to a poorly functioning voltage regulator.
So the ideal setup would be to connect the p&h board in place of the FETs while replacing R18,R21,..., with 1kOhm resistors and replacing R10-13 on the p&h board with 430Ohm resistors (Digikey part# 430EBK-ND) and using the VEMS flyback with the p&h board Darlington transistors. With that, you'd need to find a way to heatsink the Darlingtons. If you don't mind drilling holes in your case, using the case as heatsink is a good solution if the case is thick aluminium. You'll need to use mica insulators to keep the transistors from grounding to the case.
Jean
Jean thanks for that, i see a solution aproaching ;D.
I had intended to mount the P&H board inside the Alubos case above the Genboard and sinking the Darlington transistors ( I had always considered using these for the reason you lay out) in a similar manner to how the Genboard FETs are sinked, I have plenty of insulator sheet, this would not have been left out.
Ok then, this sounds like a plan.
I will try this with the altered onboard resistors, fairly easy to do, hard wire from the FET pads to the P&H, swap the resistors on the P&H board and give it a go. That way i still have my expensive fuse ;D protecting the processor some what.
Need to see if I can get these parts from Maplins or RS components before I go away next week, i want to do this mod, when im in the hotel, it'll give me something to do :D
This the pinacle of the R&D :D
Boom and bust, maybe with a bit of smoke :D ;)
I will physicaly check the FET driver chip thats onboard. http://dkc3.digikey.com/Media/PDF/Data%20Sheets/IXYS%20PDFs/IXDF404,IXDI404,IXDN404.pdf
Looks like its the MC33151 chips to me. This is a blown up pic of the top of the board I took about two weeks ago
(http://freespace.virgin.net/colin.milne/FETDriverChip.jpg)
You're right, it definitely looks like the MC33151. That means the signal is inverted so if you were to remove them, you'd need to change the software somehow to change the signal polarity. It wouldn't be a big change but it might be a challenge to find where and how to do it.
Jean
Could always use the non inverted ones on just outputs for one P&H board, but are we removing these?
If you had you board with these FET drivers and you had your injectors connected to the FETs then you don't need to change anything (FET driver or software) to use the solution proposed above (change resistors and remove FETs).
All I was saying is that if you were to go to the solution of connecting the p&h board directly to the CPU then you would have had to change the software because it must be inverting the signal for it to be of the correct polarity after being inverted again by the FET driver. You would have needed the software to not invert the signal for it to go directly to the p&h board.
So you can just ignore my last post (and the text above) and go with the changed resistors and FET removal solution. You now only need to choose the location of the p&h board and how you're going to wire it. About wiring, the signal from the FET driver INJG0x requires only small wires because there's very little current going through. The injector current is obviously quite large so will require bigger wires (same as what you have going to your injectors in the wiring loom). The routing of those 8 wires is likely going to be a major factor in where you position the board.
Jean
By the way, if this is deemed OT for this forum by the admin, let me know and I'll discuss this privately with Colin.
Jean
Nope, its fine, carry on with the discussion.
I'm happier with the P&H board being connected after the drivers as its one more level of isolation and therefore protection for the AVR.
Rob
Quote from: jbelanger on October 31, 2007, 09:16:19 PM
replacing R10-13 on the p&h board with 430Ohm resistors (Digikey part# 430EBK-ND)
Jean, are these resisters originaly required? I see the positions on the board, but the BOM and the schematic do not show these.
Also, Digikey did not have any of these resistors in stock 39KEBK-ND, are these plain ordinary carbon film resistors i can source from Maplins or RS Components in the UK? I will have to source the 430EBK-ND resistors anyway
Also need to source 1k surface mount resistors as well, not looked in the rescue kit yet
I now have my digikey parts except those above ;D, let the build commence, Just waiting on my new ECU case ::)
Unfortunately i cannot find anywhere that stocks 1k surface mount resistors, Maplins are useless, more of a toy shop, and RS no longer stock these
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?Nr=avl%3auk&N=4294962297%204294890512&forwardingPage=search&name=SiteStandard&obs=fObs&callingPage=/jsp/browse/browse.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0166120325.1193945880@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccladdmghkemkecefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape
Next best thing is this, Will these do?
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?Nr=avl%3auk&N=4294962297%204294810314&forwardingPage=search&name=SiteStandard&obs=fObs&callingPage=/jsp/browse/browse.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0166120325.1193945880@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccladdmghkemkecefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape
Lowest watt carbon film 39k is 0.33
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?Nr=avl%3auk&N=4294962302%204294898017&forwardingPage=search&name=SiteStandard&obs=fObs&callingPage=/jsp/browse/browse.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0166120325.1193945880@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccladdmghkemkecefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape
but can find metal film at 0.125 watt, will these metal film be suitable? A resistor is a resistor, right? :-\
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?Nr=avl%3auk&N=4294962300%204294951423%204294913927%204294867130&forwardingPage=search&name=SiteStandard&obs=fObs&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0166120325.1193945880@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccladdmghkemkecefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape
Again the 430 ohm only available in a 0.66 watt carbon film
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?Nr=avl%3auk&N=4294962302%204294867102&forwardingPage=search&name=SiteStandard&obs=fObs&callingPage=/jsp/browse/browse.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0166120325.1193945880@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccladdmghkemkecefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape
But available in 0.25 watt Metal film
http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?Nr=avl%3auk&N=4294962300%204294951423%204294867102&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=0164233&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0166120325.1193945880@@@@&BV_EngineID=cccladdmghkemkecefeceeldgondhgj.0&cacheID=uknetscape
6 off 1K surface mount resistors are in the rescue kit and are the '102' resistors. I understand the numbers on these things now. 10 to the power of 2 ::)
Quote from: Sprocket on November 01, 2007, 07:22:44 PM
Quote from: jbelanger on October 31, 2007, 09:16:19 PM
replacing R10-13 on the p&h board with 430Ohm resistors (Digikey part# 430EBK-ND)
Jean, are these resisters originaly required? I see the positions on the board, but the BOM and the schematic do not show these.
Also, Digikey did not have any of these resistors in stock 39KEBK-ND, are these plain ordinary carbon film resistors i can source from Maplins or RS Components in the UK? I will have to source the 430EBK-ND resistors anyway
Also need to source 1k surface mount resistors as well, not looked in the rescue kit yet
I now have my digikey parts except those above ;D, let the build commence, Just waiting on my new ECU case ::)
Colin,
The BOM for the v1.1 board has R10-13 specified in it but they're not required in the usual installation. They're for an upcoming feature but will be very useful now. If you look at my web page (http://jbperf.com/p&h_board/index.html) you'll have some information about those and the v1.1 BOM. You probably have the v1.0 BOM.
R10-13 as well as the 39K resistors are all 1/6 W resistors which are 3.4mm long. That's the main issue if you're looking for a replacement otherwise you'll have a hard time fitting them to the board. The board has the resistor pads 0.3" (7.5mm) apart so you have to account for the resistor body length and the lead radius. Also, anything with at least 1/8W will be fine for both values.
If you have trouble finding 39K resistors, you could go with a slightly lower or higher value because it's not a critical value. The resistors are there to limit the peak phase time in case the peak current can't be reached (likely due to low battery voltage). With 39K, the time is limited to 3.9ms so if you go to a 36K resistor the time limit will be 3.6ms or if you with 43K the time limit will be 4.3ms.
Jean
We have progress ;D
I have been busy swapping the Genboard into the intended Alubus 'Vems' case. While at it I soldered new EGT2, VR2 and P259 chip on board, so far everything checks out :D, although i have no way of checking the VR chip :-\
Anyway. I source some 0.6w Metal film resistors and soldered everything onto the P&H board excluding the flyback diodes and transister as discussed with Jean. One thing i did do was solder on the resistor and zener diode which is also part of this circuit, This wont be a problem will it Jean?
I also changed the resistors on the Genboard which is after the FET driver chip and before the FETs, changed them to 102s (1000 ohm). see picture, resistors circled in yellow
I removed the four FETs from the middle row and moved them to the ignition chanels to keep the output capebility. At the same time I installed two new IGTBs for possible future COP/ sequential ignition.
After moving the above FETs, i soldered on wires from the P&H board to the FET pads, checked everything was good with no shorts. The P&H board is mounted, inverted, on the top part of the Alubos case, with one end of the board in the second pcb chanel, with the other end fitted with two stand offs. The FETs are clamped in a similar fashion to the Genboard with insulator sheet between the case and the FETs, FETs checked for any shorts to the case or each other. All good. I think its quite neatly packaged to be honest. Maybe worth considering a longer board to use the pcb slots and just clamp the FETs, obviously VEMS specific then, but how many people would use these to justify the need :-\
It may be possible to get two of these boards in the case back to back, as Jead had designed for Megasquirt, but it will be damd tight with the wiring, but not impossible ;)
I now need to rewire the Econoseal connectors and reconfigure the P259 outputs back to my original configuration, rewire the injector to the correct chanel, remove the resistor, and start again with the calibration :D :D :D.
Oh one other thing, I remover the Transient surpression diode from the flyback wire inside the case so I can install it in the loom instead, that way I can keep an eye on its temperature and remove it if required. I know you stated to remove it Rob, but Jean said to keep it, so im going to do the research on it to find out one way or the other. Still not really sure on whether its required or not.
Just a note on the config of the injector, currently the single injector is configured in the H[0] tabele as 0-1 with the divider as 1. The question i am asking, is if I set the divider to two, will this reduce the injector firing by half? IE instead of firing every 360 degrees per cycle, it fires once every 720 degrees per cycle??
Reason I ask this is, as i have mentioned previously, the injector Im using is providing far more fuel that it did on the OEM system and wodering if the divider is a factor in this, not knowing how many times the OEM system fired the injector per cycle.
Onwards and upwards, I aint smoked it yet :D
(http://freespace.virgin.net/colin.milne/DSCF2901.JPG)
(http://freespace.virgin.net/colin.milne/DSCF2902.JPG)
(http://freespace.virgin.net/colin.milne/DSCF2904.JPG)
(http://freespace.virgin.net/colin.milne/DSCF2905.JPG)
(http://freespace.virgin.net/colin.milne/DSCF2906.JPG)
(http://freespace.virgin.net/colin.milne/DSCF2907.JPG)
Quote from: Sprocket on November 10, 2007, 06:52:09 PM
...
Anyway. I source some 0.6w Metal film resistors and soldered everything onto the P&H board excluding the flyback diodes and transister as discussed with Jean. One thing i did do was solder on the resistor and zener diode which is also part of this circuit, This wont be a problem will it Jean?
...
Oh one other thing, I remover the Transient surpression diode from the flyback wire inside the case so I can install it in the loom instead, that way I can keep an eye on its temperature and remove it if required. I know you stated to remove it Rob, but Jean said to keep it, so im going to do the research on it to find out one way or the other. Still not really sure on whether its required or not.
...
The resistor and zener diode won't be a problem because without the flyback diodes and TIP42, they're not connected to anything but ground. As for the transient suppression diode, you need it if you're not using the p&h board's flyback. I think that Rob was saying to remove it and use the p&h board's flyback components which is another way to do it.
As for board size, if I get enough demand for it I could do it. Do you have exact dimensions for it or a link to the case dimensions? I could also adapt the board for a similar installation by removing the flyback components and adding the resistor for the voltage divider.
I look forward to hear how things go from here.
Jean
Jean The transient surpession diode is an extra, the flyback circuit is onboard. Normaly when running PWM the diode is left out as it can fry the flyfack circuit, when running saturated, the diode reduceds the injector closing time resulting in better response. I am in other peoples hands with this as i havent a clue, lol.
If the Peak and Hold mode operates like a saturated injector, then i would suggest it is fine left in circuit. If however it acts more like PWM it may be a bad idea??? With or with out the diode, there is still a flyback circuit on board. I believe this to be a low voltage flyback, there is a high voltage 'power' flyback add on circuit for use with High Z injectors( substituteed with the transient surpression diode), where the low voltage is used on low Z injectors.
Fly back circuitry is somewhat of a mystery to me, other than the basic theory of why its required. :D
One other thing. I managed to find out how and where to change the invertion of the injector drive signals of the processor, its within the 'my_make.ini' file, part of the firmware configuration :) Not that it matters now :D
Just need to test it now, dont know when as im going to be mad busy the next couple of weeks with work and family stuff.
Colin,
You don't "need" the transient suppression diode but you certainly want it because otherwise you'll have sluggish injector closing. And the p&h circuit will behave more like a saturated injector from a flyback point of view so you shouldn't have a problem with heat. It's still a good idea to keep an eye on the diode to make sure that it's the case.
Jean
Ecu is back in the car and running. Before I swap over to the peak and hold drivers, i have changed the config of the injector. The required fuel value has been doubled and the 'divider' in injector settings has been set to 2. At idle i havent noteced any major difference, so its a matter of testing that and letting the VE learn settle the VE map acordingly. I'll have a play with the acceleration enrichments to see if this change improves that situation, which is the main reason for the change really. I'll do that tomorrow evening.
Once thats done, i will rewire the injector and set up for the peak and hold driver. Hopefully the VE map will be close enough allowing EGO correction to do its thing again using VE learn to settle the VE map. Hopefully have this done by the end of the week ;D
A question for Jean. On the P&H board there are six solder pads, four for the injector driver signal, one for 5v+ and the other is presumably ground. Will it matter that i have not connected this ground? I connected it as per the previous version boards that did not have this ground.
Excellent work.
Been out with the new injector config as above, and everything is good, lol it was fun to get out in the Mini and remember how well it pulls :D
PW at idle is now about 2.4ms and max 11.5ms at 52.5% duty. The injector's potential is now starting to be used ;)
Its amasing how many ways there are to achieve exactly the same fueling :D
I have also tuned the idle Lambda to 1.04 and fast idle to 1.02, you know why ;) The idle seems much smoother now, though its difficult to tell as i've not had the engine running for a while.
Never got round to looking at the acceleration enrichments, but its about the same as before, still some work required there.
Coolant temps have settled out and no longer fluctuate stupid amounts, so i think thats fixed to a degree, still need to get the INC files for these sensors compiled into HEX format.
Next stage now is the swap over to the peak and hold driver. I'll rewire the injector tomorrow evening, its only a matter of running a wire from the Injector output to the injector, I'll leave the other wire with the series resistor where it is and just disconnect it at the injector for now. Testing will start on Wednesday.
Looking at the injector ramp up times, i was thinking of starting with 800 and starting from there ?? remembering this is a low ohm injector with the peak and hold driver, the injector will open fast. Im currently using a ramp up time of 1296 :o
Onwards and upwards
Quote from: Sprocket on November 26, 2007, 01:08:38 AM
A question for Jean. On the P&H board there are six solder pads, four for the injector driver signal, one for 5v+ and the other is presumably ground. Will it matter that i have not connected this ground? I connected it as per the previous version boards that did not have this ground.
Actually, it is essential to connect the ground pad because that ground is for the LM1949 supply. The pad was added because I have separated the low-current ground from the high-current ground on the board to minimize any noise issue (not that there was any reported with the first design but better safe than sorry). So connect this ground pad to a known ground on the VEMS board (preferably not a ground from a high current component).
Jean
Thanks Jean, no worries, i'll do that tomorrow as well :)
I had a feeling, thats why I asked the question ;)
;D
It works :D
Injector ramp up is set at 552 at the moment and idle is good. Warm up enrichments and idle air need tuning fully again. VE map isnt far off, and the agressive VE learn i have set, is pulling it back fairly quickly. Its just down to tuning now. ;D
Id like to thank those for their help, especialy Jean for taking time out to get involved.
Ive even started to use the Wiki a bit more and started to update my MembersPage :D :D :D
Good work! ;D
And I'm glad I could help. It's always nice to see people trying new things and succeeding.
Cheers,
Jean
Colin, do you mind if I put a link to your wiki page on my web site?
Hi, Jean, yes, that won't be a problem ;)
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MembersPage%2FSprocket%2FPeakAndHoldInjectorDrivers
Just a thought
(http://freespace.virgin.net/colin.milne/DSCF2902.JPG)
I'd be using a hot glue gun on all the connections to the board - it will add mechanical strength and insulation to those joints, I'm not dissing your soldering but vibrations kill connections, which is one of the reasons we avoid daughterboards where possible.
It will be interesting to see how this works I can think of a couple of cars that would benefit from removal of resistor pack and addition of one of these boards.
Rob
Quote from: [email protected] on November 30, 2007, 08:34:20 AM
I'd be using a hot glue gun on all the connections to the board - it will add mechanical strength and insulation to those joints, I'm not dissing your soldering but vibrations kill connections, which is one of the reasons we avoid daughterboards where possible.
It will be interesting to see how this works I can think of a couple of cars that would benefit from removal of resistor pack and addition of one of these boards.
Rob
That's a very good point and I totally agree. You want to remove as much stress on the solder joint as possible.
Rob, let me know if you have any question regarding those potential installs.
Jean
Valid point :D
I'll get the glue gun out this week ;)