Hi all,
Could someone look look this over, to see if this looks like itÃ,´s supposed to.
This is the injector and ignition settings the firing order is 1-3-2-4
primary_trigger=29
secondary_trigger=59
tooth_wheel=02
trigger_tooth=00
another_trigger_tooth=03
crank_minper=75
tooth_wheel_twidth1=00
tooth_wheel_twidth2=00
cam_sync_r_edge_phase=00
cam_sync_f_edge_phase=00
reset_engphase_after=04
j[0]=2E80 357F 3A7F 3E7F 427F 447F 477F 487F 487F 487F 477F 457F 447F 427F 407F 3F7F
j[1]=317F 387F 3D7F 427F 467F 497F 4B7F 4C7F 4D7F 4D7F 4C7F 4A7F 487F 467F 447F 437F
j[2]=337F 3A7F 3F7F 447F 487F 4B7F 4E7F 4F7F 4F7F 4F7F 4E7F 4C7F 4A7F 487F 467F 457F
j[3]=347F 3C7F 417F 467F 4A7F 4D7F 507F 517F 527F 517F 507F 4E7F 4C7F 4A7F 487F 477F
j[4]=377F 3F7F 457F 497F 4E7F 517F 547F 567F 567F 567F 557F 537F 507F 4E7F 4D7F 4B7F
j[5]=387F 417F 467F 4B7F 507F 547F 567F 587F 587F 587F 577F 557F 537F 517F 4F7F 4D7F
j[6]=3A7F 427F 487F 4D7F 537F 567F 597F 5A7F 5B7F 5A7F 597F 577F 557F 537F 517F 4F7F
j[7]=3B7F 447F 4A7F 4F7F 557F 587F 5B7F 5C7F 5D7F 5D7F 5B7F 597F 577F 557F 537F 517F
j[8]=3E7F 477F 4E7F 537F 597F 5C7F 5F7F 617F 627F 617F 607F 5D7F 5B7F 597F 577F 557F
j[9]=357F 3E7F 447F 487F 487F 457F 427F 3F7F 387F 427F 497F 4C7F 4D7F 4A7F 467F 437F
j[A]=3A7F 447F 4B7F 4F7F 4F7F 4C7F 487F 457F 3C7F 467F 4D7F 517F 517F 4E7F 4A7F 477F
j=3F7F 497F 517F 567F 567F 537F 4E7F 4B7F 417F 4B7F 547F 587F 587F 557F 517F 4D7F
j[C]=427F 4D7F 567F 5A7F 5A7F 577F 537F 4F7F 447F 4F7F 587F 5C7F 5D7F 597F 557F 517F
j[D]=477F 537F 5C7F 617F 617F 5D7F 597F 557F 867F 857F 837F 807F 7D7F 7A7F 777F 747F
l[0]=37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37
l[1]=37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37
l[2]=37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37
l[3]=37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37
l[4]=37 37 37 37 31 31 31 31 31 37 37 37 37 37 37 37
l[5]=37 37 37 37 31 31 31 31 37 37 37 47 47 47 47 47
l[6]=37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 37 47 47 47 55 55 55
l[7]=37 37 37 37 47 47 47 47 47 47 47 55 55 55 55 55
l[8]=37 37 37 37 55 55 55 55 55 55 5C 5C 5C 5C 5C 5C
l[9]=37 37 37 37 55 66 66 66 66 66 66 66 66 66 66 66
l[A]=55 55 55 55 55 66 66 66 70 70 66 66 70 70 78 78
l=55 55 55 66 66 66 6D 6D 70 70 70 70 78 78 78 78
l[C]=66 66 66 66 66 6D 78 78 78 78 81 81 81 81 87 87
l[D]=78 78 78 78 78 78 78 81 81 81 81 81 81 81 8D 8D
n[0]=28 28 28 50 78 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0
n[1]=28 28 28 50 64 A0 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4
n[2]=28 28 28 50 78 A0 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4
n[3]=3C 3C 50 78 8C B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4
n[4]=64 78 78 8C A0 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4
n[5]=78 78 78 8C B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4
n[6]=78 78 78 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0 A0
n[7]=78 78 78 8C 8C 8C 8C 8C 8C 8C 8C 8C 8C 8C 8C 8C
n[8]=78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78
n[9]=78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78
n[A]=78 78 78 78 78 78 78 78 50 50 50 50 64 64 64 64
n=78 78 78 78 78 64 64 64 3C 3C 3C 3C 50 50 50 50
n[C]=78 78 78 78 78 64 64 50 30 30 30 3C 48 48 50 50
n[D]=64 64 64 64 64 64 50 3C 28 28 30 30 3C 3C 48 48
k[0]=23 2D 32 37 41 4B 5A 64 78 96 B4 D2 E6 FA
r[0]=06 0B 0F 13 18 1C 21 25 2B 30 34 39 3E 42 47 4B
h[0]=08 02 04 01 10 20 40 80
h[1]=FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF
h[2]=37 17 27 07 7F 7F 7F 7F
b[0]=32 32 3C 4B 64 69 69 69 69 69 69 69 64 5F 5F 5A
t[0]=33 B3 FF FF FF FF FF FF
Edit.when i got the right download config, the hole thing changed
Today, i had the ecu pluged in, and got the tps within spec, and the mapsensor offset set,
And tested the fan control, fuel pump, and all is working as supposed,
The tried to crank the engine, to se if there is rpm signal, but itÃ,´s complete dead, no rpm count a all,
So itÃ,´s not even showing "cranking", i then tried to disabel secondary trigger, to see if that made a difference, but no, no difference at all. :'(
So it looks like i have to get a scoop on it to see if there is a signal comming trough, otherwise, there must be something wrong with the setup,
Which i think it is, but only time will tell ::)
/Skassa
Put your DVM across the crank sensor pins and see what sort of voltage you're seeing (you'll need to set it on VAC as an alternating current is generated)
Are you driving the fan and fuel pump from FETs or from the P259? If you've powered up the board without the grounds clustered together you'll have fried the p259 chip, check the voltage on pin 8 of the LM1815 chips if these are well below 5V then P259 is dead.
If not then you will need to have a look at the wiki to find out about trigger logging.
I doubt it's the P259 unless the Subaru grounds have gone bad. (A distinct possibility!) Trigger logging is easier than it sounds - I'd be very happy to help you translate them.
It's definitely best to cluster the grounds since this insures against problems as the OE grounds deteriorate.
Quote from: [email protected] on April 13, 2008, 07:47:45 PM
Put your DVM across the crank sensor pins and see what sort of voltage you're seeing (you'll need to set it on VAC as an alternating current is generated)
Are you driving the fan and fuel pump from FETs or from the P259? If you've powered up the board without the grounds clustered together you'll have fried the p259 chip, check the voltage on pin 8 of the LM1815 chips if these are well below 5V then P259 is dead.
If not then you will need to have a look at the wiki to find out about trigger logging.
I will try to put my DVM on, to se if anything is generated, but i belive so..,
i am running the fan and fuelpump from the p259 chip, but that is trigging the oe relay, so i dont suppose that will be a problem?
The grounds were clustered together, before i powered it up, just like you said :)
That will be tonight,
Thanks,
Skassa
Quote from: dnb on April 13, 2008, 08:35:13 PM
I doubt it's the P259 unless the Subaru grounds have gone bad. (A distinct possibility!) Trigger logging is easier than it sounds - I'd be very happy to help you translate them.
It's definitely best to cluster the grounds since this insures against problems as the OE grounds deteriorate.
So i might as well make some good grounding all over,
i will do that..
And yes i need all the help i can get :)
Thanks,
Skassa
I had a friend with a advanced scop over to measure the trigger signal, and this is what it looks like.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Denmark/Subarutriggerpicture.jpg)
I do belive that this is how itÃ,´s supposed to look like, so all sugestions to make it work, would be welcome :)
Thanks,
Skassa
::) ::) ::) ::)
Ups, i just found out that i had wired the wrong pins to the jumper, on the first Vr sensor ::) ::) ::)
I thinki will plug the ecu in again tomorow ..
/Skassa
I just had the Vems plugged in, and there is a cranking signal, without trigger errors :)
ItÃ,´s cranking at just under 200rpm, which is about right..
now i just have to figure out the injector and ignition settings ::)
Thanks,
Skassa
well,
IÃ,´m still having the trigger noise problems, i have just not had the time to get to look at it yet,
I have now decided to pay someone to figuer out how to make the trigger signal work with the VEMS, as this is a problem with all Japanese cars, meaning that the VEMS cant read the trigger signal probberly(only europe cars works),
So i will now pay to get it working, so i in the future can install VEMS without having to "hope" that it can read the triggger.
There must be something with the trigger circut that is not like any other aftermarket ECU, as all others seem to be able to read the trigger signal without the noise..
I have now 2 my99 ImprezaÃ,´s waiting to have a VEMS mounted, but i have to hold them off, becource of the trigger problems,
Dnb, do you know how the immobliser works on the my99 Impreza?
I just figuere that i can still mount a VEMS, but then there will be no Immobliser, as the LINK and Autronic and such, have dip switches on there ecu to make it work.
Thanks,
Skassa
My MY99 is JDM so the immobiliser is aftermarket. All it does is the standard thing of having SCRs which cut power to the fuel pump, starter and coils. I recently found a wiring diagram for a MY99 so I'll see if I can figure it out.
The trigger noise is very interesting to me. I still haven't done anything about getting my Subaru running on VEMS - still waiting for the engine builder to finish. He keeps playing with old Fords! I would guess at it being from poorly shielded wires and lack of signal conditioning on the VEMS circuit board.
Do you not have a shielded cable for the timing signal?
We're both using the standard wiring - so yes, it's shielded, but it's not as good as the wire I use when I made my own looms.
itÃ,´s also not just the SubaruÃ,´s,
ItÃ,´s also feks Toyota, were the trigger is built into the distrubitor,that the Vems is having a hard time to read.,Rob have also had speciel trigger discs made to Nissan cars, but it would be nicer , to being able to run the oe setup , right?
But iÃ,´m sure that we will now find a solution, that hopefully will work with all cars, both the europe and Jap cars,
On the last 20v Toyota i made it ran off the oe setup for a while, but i got fed up with the starting problem, so i mounted a 36-1 crank trigger wheel,
ItÃ,´s also easy, but there will be a much bigger marked for the VEMS if it can run cars off the shell, with oe wiring, and just a adaptor to connect VEMS.
/Skassa
The reason for the Nissan trigger disk was not noise but the design of the trigger disk itself - a lot of ECU manufacturers use a replacement trigger disk.
Rob
Skassa - I agree with what you're saying with re-use of OE stuff.
There is a 36-1 disc for the Subaru EJ20 used by Pectel if all else fails. (I hope it doesn't, but I like options) 6 tooth crank discs are always going to be difficult.
Quote from: dnb on May 17, 2008, 04:46:52 PM
Skassa - I agree with what you're saying with re-use of OE stuff.
There is a 36-1 disc for the Subaru EJ20 used by Pectel if all else fails. (I hope it doesn't, but I like options) 6 tooth crank discs are always going to be difficult.
Yes , i did see that Pat showed it on 22b years ago, but i just think that whe other Ecu manufacters can make it work,so can we ;).....I hope ::).
Sorry rob, i just assumed that it was the same noise problem.
I still havend had the time to work on it, as my son had his 4years birthday today, and tomorrow i have to get the Forged HKS Subaru engine together, as the owner would like torun some 10sec passes ;D
/Skassa
Happy birthday for your son. It should have been my daughter's zeroth birthday yesterday - looks like she's a typical woman, and not ready yet... ;)
There will be an obvious solution for the trigger somewhere.
Quote from: dnb on May 18, 2008, 12:07:37 AM
Happy birthday for your son. It should have been my daughter's zeroth birthday yesterday - looks like she's a typical woman, and not ready yet... ;)
This is going to be a big day for You All, when it happens :)
There will be an obvious solution for the trigger somewhere.
I hope so, but do you know were i can buy the 36-1 wheel for the Impreza?, and at what cost?
As i have to make a Impreza within 2-3weeks
Thanks,
Skassa
I believe Pat still sells them. The trick is pinning him down to give you a price and take money off you... ;)
No idea on price unfortunately.
There seems to be a small strage thing with the subaru trigger, as when i needs to set the tdc delay, it only moves half of what i write, meaning if the tdc delay is 80degrees, and i measure the crank advance to 30degrees, and the setting is 15 , if i then the delay to 65 ,
then it will measure 22,5degrees why is that?
/Skassa
I have quite simply no idea on that one, if the effect is constant then you should be alright - its good practice to strobe the engine right through the rev range.
I also strobe it across the rpm range, itÃ,´s just when setting the tdc delay, that itÃ,´s off,
So it must be a simple error i the subaru config.
/Skassa
Hmm,
I was out mapping the car last night, and the advance is indeed of, as it i strobed it at 10degrees, so this is right, if i write 40 degrees in the field the this will be 10degrees thatÃ,´s fixed + half of the rest, that is 40degrees- 10degrees = 30 degrees, then half of that =15degrees+the 10 fixed , so this will be 25degrees advance in total,
This is extremly strange, as itÃ,´s the config i downloaded from one subaru to another, and itÃ,´s right on the first!.
ItÃ,´s a bit of trooble to map, and i can only get 37.5degrees , as the max that can be written is 63degrees.
/Skassa
Can you not adjust the "TDC after the trigger" parameter?
Yes, i can do that, but itÃ,´s just a pain, that the advance is not right, when i know around what numbers that needs to be filled in,
But i also found out that there is still some noise on the trigger signals on this one, when cranking, but itÃ,´s not all the time, some of the times i can start the car, without the "trigger error" is light,and it also starts easyer when this happens..
Any suggestions to make the Vems able to read the trigger signal, if perhaps you know a chip the can be inserted, that will clean it up, or some other suggestions?
/Skassa
This is some info i found that relate to megasquirt , and the subaru trigger.
http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Subaru.htm#wiring
/Skassa
If I were you I'd be plastering this information on the Wiki, because the developers will never see this.
Shame that it is they all use the Wiki.
Done!
Thanks alot :)
Ps: are you sure that they are not looking ?
I think that there is lots af "guest" looking lately ;D
Usually the Guests are Google and Yahoo bots.
Here is one that finds a sulution with the megasquirt.
http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=28092
There is was the cranktrigger that caused the sync to be out when cranking.
/Skassa
Is there anyone on here that can figure out, if the subaru trigger setup is running only half of the advance that is written in megatune?
I did on my own car not measure if the advance was right over the rpm scale, but i now think that this also is wrong,
ItÃ,´s just not so easy to measure, as it got cops.
/Skassa
Regarding the cranking trigger noise,
we yesterday mounted 2, 50k potientometers to being able to both make pulldown, or pullup on both the cas and cam sensor,
and i have both adjusted to make pull up now, and today was the first day, that the car could start without making trigger errors,
and it started like normal, this is when both are almost at 5volt,
i have not measured the resistens yet, as i would like to try to put on some "freez spray" so i can simulate it to be really cold, as it worse, when cold..
So this is great news :)
/Skassa
Hi,
Errm, I going to say something and I've not got anything to back it up with, but....
When you use a timing light on a wasted spark coil pack it reads double the actual advance, so would it read half the actual advance with COP?
Cheers,
Gavin :)
No , thatÃ,´s not the problem,
as this is both on a EJ20 with cops , and and a EJ20 with wastedspark.
My timminggun, does not show dobble with wastedspark??
It is a error in the software setup, im sure.
but as iÃ,´m not a programmer, i have no glue on what to do, other then ,
I going to live with this, and not being able to map the car probbely, becourse of the lack of advance( you cant go futher then 63,25 degrees),
i can get around the problem , if i can go minus advance
Can i do that?
If so , i could strobe the engine at 30degrees, and the type -30, to get 15,
But itÃ,´s just plain stupid, itÃ,´s supposed to work,
So right now the subaru setup does NOT work
But thanks, for info.
/SKassa
Quote from: Denmark on July 08, 2008, 07:46:12 AM
My timminggun, does not show dobble with wastedspark??
Hi,
Some do, some don't. I know my Snap On one does and I've heard of other makes that do as well.
Cheers,
Gavin :)
Quite often the ones that have the timing offset function get confused by wasted spark as they were originally designed to fire once per cycle but see twice as many firing events, and consequently calculate the engine speed to be twice as fast it actually is... which halves the advance.
One way round this is to use a light in place of coil number 1 - as the IGBT can handle 15A you can use a pretty strong light - the trouble you may find is the speed of activation, incandesant lights have a warm-up time, so a bunch of bright white LEDs would be perfect. Then you'd see exactly what the ECU is doing with regards to advance with none of the timing gun's second guesses confusing the issue.
Rob
Okay,
But that canÃ,´t be the case here, can it?
If i crank it at, lets say 10 degrees, and the advance delay is 60, and i measure 5degrees with the timing gun, if i then move the advance delay to 65degrees, then when i measure again, it will only have moved to 7.5degrees
That would not be caused be then timing gun , would it?
/Skassa
If the gun is flashing incorrectly because it is trying to calculate advance then yes - its getting twice the number of sparks per cycle so it thinks the engine is running at twice the speed.
The only gun worth using is the simplest one with nothing but a light.
So as we're not able to continue with your setup as it seems to have 1/2degree accuracy its got to at least be worth looking at borrowing a simple timing light from someone, just to make sure its definately not your light.
the timing gun i got , is the cheapest one(freebee), and it cant do anything but flash the light, when it gets the the signal from the inductive sensor on the sparkplug cable.
/Skassa
Okay, fair enough - you can't blame me for trying all the possabilities ;D
no and i think itÃ,´s great, :)
Thanks,
Skassa
And the potentionmeters that i mounted burned of yesterday, so iÃ,´m back to the start problem again.
They could apperently not take the power generated at 7k rpm.
If any interest, the cam and cas sensor both measure 1.9kohm, measured a cross the terminal.
/Skassa
Thats a high impedence vr sensor - usually I'm used to seeing 300->900Ohm sensors.
The problem with a high impedence sensor is that it starts to act like an antenna for noise :(
You should be able to use fixed resistors of a reasonable wattage in order to cope with the voltages at 7K and above.
Rob
Okay,
we will give it a try with some different resistors!
but the problem is only there while cranking
I asked on the msextra forum, and there was one that had the same problem with the subaru trigger,his was going out of sync,(they can see when out of sync),
but he made a change to the code, to suppress noise,and that it was not hardware related,
But that is out of my appility to fix that,but that could be the same problem Vems is having , when reading the Jap triggers.
/Skassa
Things are happening on the Wiki side ;)
/Skassa
from the wiki side..
We yesterday tried to see if we can fix the trigger problem, when cranking, as itÃ,´s almost impossiple to start the car(itÃ,´s firing totally random,but it will suddenly , after 5min with cranking burst into life, like there is nothing wrong.
We tryed to scoop the trigger input a pin3 on the lm1815, and the output on pin12, but the scoop is not picking up much on the output, so the scop is not fast enought to pick the spikes up(4000pkt/sec),
We could then only try some differents things,
We mounted a 3.3kohm pullup on both the cas and cam, buth then the car gives no idication of being willing to try to start.
THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTEN THING TO GET TO WORK, as itÃ,´s this is not something that can be lived with
I would like suggestions to make this work fast!.
Can it run on a 4-1wheel, as i then can remove 3 teeth, or can the vems not read this as weel?, or do i have to make a 36-1 wheel?
thanks,
Skassa
today i mounted a potientiometer on both cas and cam ,to ground, to make pulldown,
But it seems random how long it takes to start the car
Can any of you that know comment on if this triggerwheel looks like it can be read be a VEMS ecu, as i dont have more time to mock around, with a car that cant start probbely, becourse of the vems not being able to read the oe trigger wheels like i hoped it could,but cant.
If so i will get one made!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Denmark/36-1sub.jpg)
i have just gotten this made, so if anything else fail, this is the working sulution,
I will put this on the Impreza iÃ,´m working on now, so the customer can get his car back.
then i will try to see if we can figure out how to make the cranking problem go away on my own car.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Denmark/trigger001.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Denmark/trigger003.jpg)
/Skassa
Nice work on those trigger wheels - I think people will be interested in them they should work for any ECU that supports 36-1.
Yes i could pretty easy get them made onto a new subaru oe wheel, that is also really cheap, as i just ordered some.
But it would still be the nicest to find out whaÃ,´t the course of the cranking trooble is, mayby it could be the wideband that interfear when cranking, i will find that out tonight,if that is the course ,then i hope for the vems software to be changed so the wideband first will start, after the car is started.
I will know more tonight..
/Skassa
I did not get it to work with the oe triggerwheel on the Impreza, so tonight i will mount one of the 36-1 wheels that i made,
So i hope and pray, that it will work straight out of the box :)
Then when i get the time, i must work with the oe trigger again on the Legacy,
/Skassa
I have mounted the 36-1 triggerwheel that i got made, and it works perfect, so this is the easy sullution,
I still have the advance problem , so something else must have changed that,
I will upload the 1.0.77 firmware, and load one of the first configs that i saved, as this could not have been present when i was at the "ring",
I will go to the ring again in 2 weeks, but i have to change the clutch first, the new V-power we just got in this country, fried my clutch, as it could take 8 more degreese advance over the regular 98octane....
But this is offcourse a good thing ;D
/Skassa
IÃ,´m seeing that your getting some advance measurement problems even with a 30-1 setup and a cam sensor?
If you have the cam sensor wouldnÃ,´t it be easiest to just run sequential?
The Impreza have got a wastedspark coil, so iÃ,´s not possiple to run sequential...
It must be something that have madea change in config somehow, that is causing this, so i will try to upload a old file to see if it behaves again..
/Skassa
IÃ,´m beginning to think the Focus Zetec 2.0 2000MY is having similar problems.
I wasnÃ,´t able to scope it today but I did scope the base timing as 77deg TDC as dead on.
My light might be fooling me though, as I had to use the 2stroke mode to get the rpmÃ,´s right.
And then did the advance check.
As I donÃ,´t remember what timing I was looking at at the time It might be wrong?
Should it have been 5deg off then? As in 72deg if I had 10degrees in the map at the time?
IÃ,´ve been mapping it to a solid 0.82 lambda at WOT and around 100kpa, but IÃ,´m up to 40degress of timing at higher then peak torque area and itÃ,´s still picking up some pace in the higher rpmÃ,´s
Is my 40 turning out as 20degrees cause the car doesnÃ,´t really feel like itÃ,´s performing as hoped?
Or if I was using 15degrees for the timing check itÃ,´s actuallu running 7.5degress wrong base timing so my 40 is actually 32.5??
I know I need to take a dummy light back and have a check to double check just wondering if there is some sort of an issue going on.
It could be a problem like mine,
I will start from scratch again, with the new 1.0.77 firmware, and start over, to see if i can get it working again.
If your car is NA, i would suggest to lean it out a bit, as that can give you some power,
On the BT20v Corolla i made, that made the most HP at around lambda 0.88...
And there was a big difference , when leaning out..But watch out for knock
/Skassa
The trouble is that both these cars are using wasted spark - which is known to cause problems with timing lights with advance and RPM calculation, and 1.0.73 is probably the most used firmware. All the Corollas are using it, lots of Fords and these are running wasted spark.
This is not to say that you are wrong, if there is a corrupted version of 1.0.73 floating around then we have some serious issues to sort.
Rob
I have also been using 1.0.73 on other cars ,without problems.
My timing light is not a fancy one, there is just the light that flash when the indutive feeler on the sparkplug wire, feel the spark.
On my, i belive it to be something to do with the subaru trigger setup, but after i have changed it to 36-1, the problem is still present, iÃ,´m also not sure that the problem have been there seens the startup of the lagacy, but the problem have come along the way, strange when i belive that the only thing i have changed, is the fuel,ignition and lambda maps, but also changes to idle control.
I have then downloaded the config, and uploaded it to the Impreza, and then the problem was there, the strange problem is that the next tank of fuel i used on the legacy, only lasted 280km, were it used to be 430km, so there the ignition retard had taked place.
I have seens written 63 degres in the igniton table, and have gotten some of the performance back.
But i will now start with new firmware, to see if that fixes the problem.
But how do upload the new firmare without the old date still being there??
even if i dont upload the config, it seems to fit what was resently in ??
/Skassa