VEMS Community Forum
Members => Projects & Installs => Topic started by: ae8286 on April 04, 2009, 08:23:36 pm
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hello, am new on here and really need some help.
av got a corolla and originally it had a 16v in it. i decided to put a 20v in it. mechanical bits and stuff i could do but electrical bits i tried but no luck. i decided to get a standalone system and the name vems kept comin up. so i rung around and got in touch with angel works. thay did the wiring and got it runnin.
my problem is my rev counter doesnt work as its not wired up. i got a ebay revcounter that needs a rev signal but where do i get the signal from?
i got no software or manuals so am lost really. want to go races this weekend so any help would be appreciated.
all i know is its got a crank angle sensor and clio coil pack
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Rev counters either work from a feed from the coils, or they can work with a resistor, power feed and setting up the VEMS correctly.
Really its down to the rev counter, if you have any details on it we can work out what's needed.
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Rev counters either work from a feed from the coils, or they can work with a resistor, power feed and setting up the VEMS correctly.
Really its down to the rev counter, if you have any details on it we can work out what's needed.
hello its got three wires ground, power and rev signal and a switch for 45678 cylinder cars. i'll try finding the fitting papers that came with it. it had diagrams of various coils and dissy that u can fit to so it gave a little help.
the original toyota dash rev counter i think got a signal from the ecu. i would like to use the original one i can remember ben at angel works mentioning diodes to make that work.
has any one used vems with original clocks?
the clio coil packs has three wires to it. if that helps. its a real pain tryna shift at right time with no tacho
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Does any of this make sense to you?
http://195.159.109.134/vemsuk/forum/index.php/topic,490.0.html
The other option is to use three diodes connected thus:
(http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSUserManual/TachoDiodes.png)
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Hi,
The diode method would be the quickest.
The "correct" way to do it may involve to moving of wires in the ECU multiplug and changes to the setup via a laptop (if the ECU was factory built)
Cheers,
Gavin :)
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Does any of this make sense to you?
http://195.159.109.134/vemsuk/forum/index.php/topic,490.0.html
The other option is to use three diodes connected thus:
(http://www.vems.co.uk/VEMSUserManual/TachoDiodes.png)
No not really. its all too technical. any one close by able to assist me. am in west yorkshire.
the diode method. how does it go.
on my coil pack there is 3 wire to it. on the diagram it says coil 1 coil2 as far as am aware i have only the 1.
could you give me a lesson on the basics. the tacho i would of thought runs of the crank for revs?
am lost is there a link or anything to show how the vems inputs and outputs data.
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Hi,
Nope, you have 2 coils in a "coil pack"
One wire (of the three) will be the 12V feed to power the coil. The other 2 pins are coil 1 & 2 as per the diagram.
I'm in the West Midlands unfortunately.
Cheers,
Gavin :)
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i'll give the diode method a go. so i need to splice into the coil wires (which ones) run 2 wires of em then the diodes. more wire join em then a single wire with the 3rd diode and then a wire to the tacho wire of the original loom. will that be adequate.
rob the product numbers for maplins are they the right ones? i'll get my mate to pop down and order em.
thanks to all for help
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The simple way to find out which is which - pull the coil plug off and with the ignition on only one will have a 12v supply - the other two are the coil drive lines you want to splice into.
Be very careful around coils though.
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In house expert to save the day.
All Corolla Rev counters, for petrol cars, are worked of a pulse from the original single coil - wire.
Your after market rev c
ounter is probably the same.
1 wire to one coilpack. The knob just allows the pulse signal to be multiplied/divided to simulate the num of cylinders.
Bobs Diode thing will do the trick.
AE82/AW11/AE86/AE92/AE101/AE111 etc all use pulse from the coil directly to tacho.
Factory rev counter wire is black with orange.
Should be by passenger footwell or near centre console.
The ecu signal wires are IGt and IGf.
IGt is the pulse signal TO the igniter on the coil to make it fire.
IGf is an echo signal of the spark event so the ECU knows how long the igniter is taking to spark (so it can compensate or throw an error).
Neither has ANYTHING to do with the tacho!
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Any update?
For the record, my bro fitted VEMs to a 20v in an AE82 some time back :D
Went like shit off a stick :D
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sorted the tacho meter out.
i need help my radiator fan kicks in way early. before my temp needle goes to half. the pipes be cold and fan comes on before the thermostat opens.
i had a silvertop 20v and now put a blacktop 20v in. used the sensor that came with the engine so do you think the new engine sensor varied from the old engine one. the fan didnt kick in that early from before.
i got no software so where can i get that from. iwanna learn to actully use the vemss so is there a guide.
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What firmware do you have?
Might want to check out downloading Vemstune and connect to your ecu.
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What firmware do you have?
Might want to check out downloading Vemstune and connect to your ecu.
where can i get that from?
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http://www.vems.hu/download/v3gui/
Download and install VemsTune-Install-xxxxx.exe, where xxxxx is the most recent date.
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thanks mate done that. so i just need to connect my laptop to my ecu?
and should the prgramme start up.
i really apprecaite ur help. thanks once i get use to it or have basic understanding i'll be ok.
just wanna sort this fan out as the car got an air lock and need the engine to warm up.
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You need to start the vemstune program.
Set it to the right COM port
connected the ecu to your laptop and it will connect.
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the firmware is version 1.0.73 if that helps
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Can you do a log from your engine ?
And post up the vemscfg you can save when you have connected to the ecu?
You most likely will require to install the firmware again with different coolant temperature patches so that the current sensor is understood correctly
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Can you do a log from your engine ?
And post up the vemscfg you can save when you have connected to the ecu?
You most likely will require to install the firmware again with different coolant temperature patches so that the current sensor is understood correctly
i really do appreciate ur help. so tomorrow start the car and hook up the laptop to ecu. then start vemtune up. then go to file option in top corner
and then select save vemscfg. what will that give some figures?
shall i just get the old temp sensor from the other engine i'll ring the guy up end get it. he should be ok.
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It will save you trouble if you can fit the old sensor back.
I was under the impression you where not able to get the sensor back. Your engine is most likely running "wrong" now because
of the different coolant sensor. So uploading a new sensor table would fix that.
Seeing a log will help in determine how far off your current sensor is from the one before so that a reccomended
replacement sensor table could be suggested.
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changed that sensor no luck fan still kicks in early. i'll do the log and post it up.
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This car came to me yesterday and the config that was in there for 1.0.73 was just ridicioulusly bad.
Somebody who had tuned it had not even setup warmup in a normal manner and the car wasn´t drivable.
warmup at 70C was 141%.
I was able to steady state it upto almost 5000rpm on the rollers.
I uploaded 1.1.88 and used almost all the defaults.
The VVT solenoid might be broken as the vems is sending the signal just fine and there is
12v to the solenoid as well.
It would benefit from a Cold air setup as now the trumpets just suck on the ambient air in the engine bay.
Now the car drives like a normal car and with the 154hp in a 900kg car it goes very nicely as well.
I was going to try and test autotune but the wideband sensor seemed dirty as it went lean below 12:1 , so I used the dynos
lambda sensor to tune it.
(http://myndasafn.bmwkraftur.is/d/90520-1/19022011040.jpg)
(http://myndasafn.bmwkraftur.is/d/90523-1/19022011041.jpg)
(http://myndasafn.bmwkraftur.is/d/90526-1/19022011042.jpg)
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my car is awesome now i am very satisfied with results. gunni ur a star i'll be seeing you soon in my ae86 so you can tune that. thanks again mate.
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VVT sensors can get clogged.
Might be worth pulling it out and cleaning it?
If I get a pay rise with new job tomorrow I may get around to finishing this :D
Thanks for the inspiration
(http://s223.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/irishtwincam/AE82%20track%20car/10092007122.jpg)
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VVT sensors can get clogged.
Might be worth pulling it out and cleaning it?
If I get a pay rise with new job tomorrow I may get around to finishing this :D
Thanks for the inspiration
hi no problem mate am glad its running now. i'll have a look at sensor.
did you buy that car from uk and come to mine and bought a booted ae86 of me.
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glad you got it sorted all ok mate and had a good trip down there bud.
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No my mate bought the booter, brother picked up the 82 for me.
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No my mate bought the booter, brother picked up the 82 for me.
alright thought i had seen it. good look on it. should be crazy once its ready. he was telling me it was an extrack car etc with a tuned engine. any idea of spec. i love ae82's.
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RMsport bigport cylinder head and RMsport cams :-D
ITBS and emerald mangement
(http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg269/twincamdan/MISC/LOL.jpg)
(http://s223.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/irishtwincam/AE82 track car/lol-15.jpg)
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120nm/liter?
Thats highly unlikely. That requires 15.1bar BMEP that´s very serious race engine terratory
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it might very well be 170 odd hp as it was a race car. am sure i read an article about this car once.
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The hp is not the problem, the relatively high torque is.
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4ag specialist built the engine