DU Espero 2.0T (destroyed), new engine housing :):):)

[jadzwin]

Hello,

Due to suggestion of Rob I start topic about my project here.



Current setup of my car:

Holden/Opel C20LE engine with 8V head and modified bottom (c20xe pistons and rods). The engine on this setup is proven to stand at least 320HP and 400Nm.  Original ECU is (was ) Delco IEFI-6 with distributor, full group injection, no KS.
The turbocharger is Garret TB2538 with big custom FMIC. In addition 320ccm injectors working on 4 bars, Wallbro high pressure fuel pump, 20seh camshaft with regulated pulley. The ignition, fuel and boost are modified by Ecumaster piggy back.  The best dyno result is 240HP and 360Nm @ 1.1 bar.


But it is a past

On Tuesday I have connected Vems and my car is already drivable (not perfect but I can reach my workplace

It opens new chapter in my car history

Already I have prepared GT28RS with the bigest AR (.86), water injection system, opel C20XE 16V head, clutch modified by Radzikowski (it should stand at least 600Nm).  In 19.10.2007 I will start to rebuild the engine. I will post photos of work progression.
I hope that in 1 week I will be able to put everything together.

My goal is to achieve 400Nm and 320HP on the current engine bottom. If everything will be ok, I will put forged Wiseco pistons and Pauter rods and I want to increase power to 350HP, and add nitrous "shot" at least +100HP.

I would like to use this car for 1/4mile in "street legal" class.

Actually I have some problems with afr during idle (lambda about 0.8-0.85 to run smoth) but i suspect 2 things:
1) Ignition advance problem,
2) I've just discovered that injectors wires inside the original Daewoo loom are connected together so I have still "full group" injection.
I need to fix it.

Jadzwin

[[email protected]]

Nice one

You will find that idle is massively cleaned up when you inject sequentially and adjust the Inj effective rampup values.

What PW are you getting at idle?  And what is your current Inj effective rampup?

Are you using the transient diode in the flyback.

Rob

[jadzwin]

Hello,

Here are current injectors settings:


PW at idle (actually about 1100 rpm) is about  1.4ms

Yes I use transient diode in the flyback.

Thanks
Jadzwin

[[email protected]]

1.4ms probably means that the injectors aren't opening properly, I'm guessing that you're injecting once every trigger, if you were to use divider of 2 you'd need to double the req_fuel, and I bet you'd get an idle PW of something like 2.1ms with much cleaner emissions.

The real advantage is to get them squirting sequentially, half the req_fuel and double the VE to get some really nice resolution in the idle and part throttle part of the map.

With transient diode you are best to set the Inj open time to 0

[jadzwin]

Thank you very much for your advices.
I will make injectors working sequentially.
Actually I've already half the req fuel to get better resolution
I also set inj. open time to 0.

Here are two pictures of instalation.  The first is orginal ECU that control the fuel, stepper motor, etc, and Vems controlling ignition.


The second is Vems alone controling everything The "case" is the best

[jadzwin]

Hello,

Today was the first day of making next evolution of my car.
The plan was to remove engine from the car.

Here are some pictures.

Under the hood (8V, 240HP)


Preparing engine to remove


Why doesn't engine want to go out ? Thats the question


Oil leaks Lots of cleaning on monday


The head with manifolds, turbo, gear box, removed.
The engine block will be drilled on monday to fit 16V head.


Now I have 3 questions:

1) I need to place IAT sensor out of the manifold plenum. Can it be located near before the throttle body ?
2) I've bought new 630ccm, hiZ, Siemens injectors. I've read that some of this fourm users use the same injectors. Do you have the proper configuration for this injectorts ?
3) How to check if flyback circuit is working ?

I made injectors work in pair and there is a big difference at idle in plus. Thank you Rob for this sugestion.

Cheers
Jadzwin

[[email protected]]

Now I have 3 questions:

1) I need to place IAT sensor out of the manifold plenum. Can it be located near before the throttle body ?
2) I've bought new 630ccm, hiZ, Siemens injectors. I've read that some of this fourm users use the same injectors. Do you have the proper configuration for this injectorts ?
3) How to check if flyback circuit is working ?

I made injectors work in pair and there is a big difference at idle in plus. Thank you Rob for this sugestion.

Nice work!

I have 3 answers
1) There is plenty of room in the plenum to drill and tap the thread for the IAT sensor.  You can put the sensor in the inlet before the throttle body if you want, it has to go after the intercooler.
2) I dont have this information but I'd follow the rule of thumb:
Inj open time 0,
Inj rampup_battfac 4080
Start of with Inj effective rampup of 1000
3) If flyback is not connected your VEMS will produce some smoke, a burning smell and then not inject fuel anymore

Getting your injectors firing individually will make things even smoother

Rob

[jadzwin]

Hello,

Today wasn't good day. Lots of unpredictable problems occurred
I was forced to disassembly the whole engine.
However several goals was achieved, and I hope tomorrow the engine will be rebuild with new 16V head

The main goal was to place the additional valve into the block that is required (some sources say that is not) to put 16V head on 8V block.
The second drilling was made to fit new oil drain.
Engine was also totally cleaned so it is ready to assembly.

Some pictures:

There will be bigger hole for the valve


The valve already in block


The hole for oil drain.

[jadzwin]

2) I dont have this information but I'd follow the rule of thumb:
Inj open time 0,
Inj rampup_battfac 4080
Start of with Inj effective rampup of 1000

I ask that because with current injectors optimal Inj open time seems to be about 200. If I put lower value the idle seems to be worse.
So that is why I asked how to test if flyback works ok.

3) If flyback is not connected your VEMS will produce some smoke, a burning smell and then not inject fuel anymore

Are you sure ? I made several injectors / solenoids controllers and I have never used any flyback circuit and I have never destroy any FET (I use IRL540)
I've checked FQPF20N06L datasheet and this also have protection diode, and it is fully avalanche rated. I understand that it could not be enough in long term, but in short term I think that FETs are safe especialy with HI-Z injectors.

Jadzwin

[[email protected]]

Well if the thing doesnt let smoke out you will get erratic injector behaviour.   With batch injection you do get some marked issues with injector opening times that you won't see on sequential.

Rob

[jadzwin]

Hello,

There is a delay in the project due to unpredictable problems.
However here is the next batch of photos of work progress:

The 16V head is on the block.


Another view


Going under the hood


Already there.


The next step is to connect everything, make exhoust manifold, mount turbo and install water injection kit.
The problem is that I have to go back to work

I have also some problems with TPS. Orginal TPS has only two states 0V when closed and +5V when open.
Actually I'm searching for other TPS (there were also version with pot).

However have you ever made acceleration enrichement in turbo car based on pressure change ?

Cheers
Jadzwin

[[email protected]]

I've heard that about the 0->5V TPS - definately get a Potentiometer one.

I'd not mess around with Pressure based acceleration, all the cars with turbos use TPS based.

[mr_g]

Basically, you are converting C20LE to C20XE with lower CR... Why didn't you use C20LET pistons in the first place, and convert C20LE directly to C20LET?

I think I would stick to the C20XE and N/A and just go to VEMS...

How is VEMS progress?

[jadzwin]

Hello,

I've converted LE to low compression C20XE because I had spare c20xe pistons and conrods and my c20le engine was in perfect condition (only 90kkm).
This stage is only for testing and learning so destroying pistons is allowed :)I

I've found very nice kit of forged pistons and conrods, that are able to stand 700hp . I have spare c20xe block in perfect condition so it will be good base for further modification.

Actually I have little time to work on my car however  I will put new info and photos on Saturday.
Meantime I've bought second VEMS It's too good to have only one

[jadzwin]

New info of work progression.

I've cleaned up the wireing in the car. I've removed all unused orginal wires, and corrected wires lenghts.
I've also mounted new oil pan. What is funny the new orginal Holden oil pan with gasket costs about 30E, but new gasket alone costs about 20E ! That is crazy

I've also adapted Bosh TPS with potentiometer to my throttle body. Actually it doesn't look so good, but after some work and polish it should look ok.


I've also have spare VEMS


My new clutch arrived. 3 weeks after deadline But it looks perfect, and should stand 600Nm (unfortunatelly the gear box does't).


Early stage of creating exhaust manifold. I hope the runners will be equal length