Configuration issues

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RPM constant is 12000/cylinder count
Four 4 cylinder its 3000

When cranking I set cranking advance to 10degrees and use the timing light to set it at 10.

Take your plugs out, let them dry, and start the car with your foot down - anything over 60% and it cuts the fuel (flood cut).
Once the engine is turning over feather the throttle a bit to get some gas in there, and the engine should catch.

If the engine dies when you put the accelerator down I'd guess its lack of accel enrichment than 4deg of advance

Rob

[Sprocket]

Ah, coolio

Yeh, i set the crank advance to 10 once id set up the primary trigger.

I dont think that it was fuel that caused the idling engine to to die. There were two situations that caused the engine to die the first was when i tried to feather the throttle, and the second i presume was as a result of the improper rpm reading holding the advance at the cranking threshold, 10 degrees, once the engine started to warm up the revs increased and the advance jumped to 14 and the engine died, this was when the primary trigger was mal adjusted causing it to fire ATDC even with the 10 degree advance. Thats been fixed now.

Anyways, it ran so im not far off.

Ive dug out a rolling road power plot and calculated the VE table, and altered the required fuel and cold / warm crank PW for the VE table, no doubling the VE and halving the PW, the ignition table looks pretty close to some ive seen for the A series engine, so going to start with that. The Lambda table im a little unsure of where to put what and whats required, its all to do with me relating Lambda to AFR, i spotted another post by Cliffb, i'll have read over that.

I have the stepper working but not controlling yet. Ive got tomorrow to play with it and, Im leaving the Knock till a later date.

Just another query. Coil charge times, where should i start with these, im using the default ones for now. The coli is a Sagem item and has low primary resistance, less than one ohm if i remember.

Ive asked a friend if he could let me copy his VE, IGN, and lambda tables, for a similar engine, just trying to narrow it down a bit easier.

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Coil charge - what coil pack are you using?

Copy IGN, but not fuel - that wont translate across systems

Rob

[Sprocket]

Well i eventualy got it to run, but not drive. It would start and then die, to get it running i reduced the required fuel, got it running to get it warm. with the required fuel as calculated EGOC was running -50 at idle, so i recon the VE map at idle is way off. Any way, its a matter of numbers to tune it. I ended up putting the OEM stuff back in for the weekends racing. Its clear on the OEM stuff that the engine needs more advance at low RPM WOT, it bogs down till around 2000 to 2500 rpm when it takes off like a rocket.

Any way, success, its now set up except for mapping and the only thing i need to change between this set up and the 16 valver is the injector outputs and settings

As for the coil pack, its the type that rover used. Its by Sagem and the numbers on it are BAE04 and 2526039 A, the coil resistance is 0.5 ohms each and 1 ohm combined, as you would expect. Four connector pins, two common power and then one for each coil. If I recall this is similar if not the same as the ones Vauxhall used.

One thing I do know about these coils is that it is easy to force the connector plug on the wrong way resulting in only two cylinders firing every engine event if one one of the power pins is populated, and all of the cylinders firing every engine event, if both the power pins are populated. Dont ask how I know this, all i will say is that it took a specialist engine management company two weeks to give up and say that they dont know what was wrong with the engine. Took me 4 hours on a cold winters morning, to start from scratch and find the problem. A ham fisted mechanic who replaced the engine is to blame.

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The Ghetto tuner method of configuring coil dwell/charge time is to start with a rule of thumb: Wasted spark coil packs seem to like 2.5 to 3.8ms.

Start at 2.5 for safety's sake and check you get a spark. If you find that you start to get misfires at higher loads increase the dwell .2 at a time until you hit your redline smoothly.

If you have a scope and a current clamp you could use it to measure the coil current as it charges and select the time that gives you about 5 to 6 amps.